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<p>It is great to get creative with vertical spaces and use every part of the garden, patio or balcony to make it your very own <strong>small space</strong>, a plant-filled haven.&nbsp;</p>

<p>With so many <strong>ideas for small gardens</strong>, you can still grow an abundance of fruit, vegetables, cut flowers and have all of the accessories and fun of a more extensive garden. There is no need to feel restricted by space because many plants grow well in containers - even some fruit trees. It is great to get creative with vertical spaces and use every part of the garden, patio or balcony to make it your very own small space, a plant-filled haven.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Growing in pots, containers and hanging baskets</h2>

<p>The go-to for smaller spaces may be to grow a container garden. This is particularly good for patios and balconies or tricky spots. We recommend grouping containers with taller pots and bigger plants at the back and annual or trailing plants towards the front like in a border. The great thing about this is you can shuffle them around and replant annuals for each season, so your container garden always has some interest. Don&rsquo;t forget to use hanging baskets to grow fruit and vegetables. Strawberries and tumbling tomatoes will look great and provide you with some products.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ideas for small gardens with vertical space&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Why not create your own green wall? There are hangers with pockets that you can line up together and plant with herbs and your favourite plants to build a green fence perfect for you and wildlife. You can also recycle guttering and layer them along walls or fences to grow salads in. There are many different types of containers or pots that will hang on fence panels and balcony railings to use every space you can. You could also try growing in a vertical growing tower filled with lots of salads and greenery.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Furniture and accessory ideas for small gardens&nbsp;</h2>

<p>Big furniture in small spaces can take up too much room, so a smaller patio or bistro set or table and chairs or a bench will fit in perfectly. Why not hang up some solar-powered lights as well to bring some evening glow to the garden and open up the space. Other furniture could include fitted benches around the edges with storage underneath or a swinging egg chair placed in a sunny corner.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Ideas for small gardens that may surprise you&nbsp;</h2>

<p>One way to make your space look bigger is to use a mirror. Not only can they look incredible, but they really open up the space. Light colours will also open up a space, so a light-coloured fence or wall paint will help.</p>

<p>Create a thriving small space with plants, furniture and accessories when you visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Ideas for small gardens

<p>Help your <strong>kids develop green fingers with these fun gardening activities</strong>!</p>

<p>Gardening is great for children, letting them learn about nature and their environment while developing practical skills. Help your <strong>kids develop green fingers with these fun gardening activities</strong>!</p>
<h2>Garden activities for children</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Sunflowers are spectacular and easy to grow from seed, and children will enjoy seeing whose sunflower will grow the tallest. For really tall sunflowers, sow Sunflower ‘Mammoth’, ‘High Hopes’ or ‘Tall Timbers’.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Plant seed potatoes. This needs a bit of patience as they take at least three months before they’re ready to harvest, but in the meantime, kids can keep watching for shoots to appear and earthing up the plants, plus there’s all the fun of digging up the potatoes later on.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow fast-growing seeds in the shape of your child’s initials so that they can enjoy the effect when the seedlings appear. Radishes and salad leaves are quick to germinate and can be left to grow for a tasty harvest.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Track your garden snails. Go out in the evening armed with a bucket and a bottle of correction fluid or nail polish and gather all the snails you can find. Mark the shells with correction fluid or nail polish, then dispose of the snails somewhere outside your garden. Over the next few days, watch to see whether any of your snails return.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Small children love to water plants. Please give them a small watering can or make one out of a plastic bottle with holes poked into the lid. Just keep an eye on things to make sure no plants get drowned by over-enthusiastic watering!</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Get the kids onto pest control duty, wiping aphids off plants and picking cabbage white caterpillars off brassicas. It’s a great way to learn about bugs and the garden's ecosystem.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Make a seed bomb. You’ll need powdered clay from a craft shop, wildflower seeds, and peat-free compost. Mix 1 cup of seeds, 5 cups of compost and 2-3 cups of clay powder. Add water gradually, mixing the ingredients until they stick together. Roll the mixture into balls and leave them to dry. Once the seed bombs are dry, you can all have fun throwing them where you want your wildflowers to sprout up!</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Make cress heads. Wash out empty yoghurt pots, remove the labels and paint faces onto the pots. Fill the pots with damp cotton wool, scatter cress seeds over the top of the cotton wool and gently press them down. Place the pots on a sunny windowsill. The cress ‘hair’ will appear in a few days and can be snipped off to add to sandwiches or scattered over soups.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Make a log pile. Gather any stray logs and twigs in your garden and pile them up in some dappled shade. Keep an eye on the pile over the year, and you should be able to spot beetles, woodlice and other wildlife making their homes there.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Visit our centre and get the whole family gardening with our fantastic range of garden tools, seeds and plants. It’s a great day out!</p>

9 fun garden activities for kids

<p>This <strong>how-to grow herbs indoors</strong> <strong>advice</strong> will ensure you get the best from your herbs for the longest harvesting period you can and help to keep your herbs looking fresh and thriving indoors.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow herbs indoors</strong> <strong>advice</strong> will ensure you get the best from your herbs for the longest harvesting period you can and help to keep your herbs looking fresh and thriving indoors. Growing herbs inside is both great if you have little or no space outside but also if you want to be able to harvest herbs as and when you are cooking without heading out into the garden every time, having some growing on the kitchen windowsill can be very convenient.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Which herbs to grow indoors</h2>

<p>We would always recommend that you choose the herbs you are most likely to use first. If you love chives on a salad start growing chives, or if you love to top your pizza with basil, start growing it so you can use it as much as you like. Then consider which will grow inside. There are very many herbs available that will grow indoors, however, there are a few that may not grow so well but it is still possible. They include sage, rosemary and thyme. Those that will grow really well inside are:</p>

<ul>
	<li>parsley,</li>
	<li>coriander,</li>
	<li>mint,</li>
	<li>oregano,</li>
	<li>chervil.</li>
</ul>

<p>Just give any herb a try and see how it grows.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Care tips for growing herbs indoors</h2>

<p>The key to growing herbs indoors is to know what each herb prefers in order to thrive. Most will do well on a sunny kitchen windowsill and some will need more water than others. Basil for example only needs to be watered when the soil is dry and the leaves have slightly started to wilt - that&#39;s the sign it&#39;s time. Others such as rosemary will need less water. All, however, will need well-drained soil and good air circulation. Don&rsquo;t forget to use the herbs. Harvesting them will help new growth and more herbs to harvest.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Use your own grown herbs</h2>

<p>One of the best things about growing herbs is to benefit from all of the nutrition and flavour they give. From rosemary on a roast dinner to coriander on a curry, oregano in a bolognese and mint made into a cup of herbal tea. The options are endless and you can just snip some off each time you need to.</p>

<h2>How to&nbsp;propagate herbs</h2>

<p>Herbs are generally very easy to propagate. Rosemary can be propagated by cuttings and basil and mint can be propagated by simply snipping some stems and popping them in water. It&rsquo;s great to see the roots growing and when they are strong enough plant them up for more herb plants. Others such as coriander or even chamomile can be allowed to go to seed and you can collect the seeds to sow all over again.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We have a large range of herbs in store and our friendly team are happy to advise you.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow herbs indoors

<p>Fancy eating fruit picked fresh from your own balcony? Find out which fruits grow best in pots and <strong>how to make the most of your balcony garden</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Imagine picking and eating your own fresh fruit straight from your balcony garden. It&rsquo;s perfectly possible to do &ndash; many fruit trees and bushes grow well in pots and look beautiful and taste delicious. Here&rsquo;s <strong>how to grow your own fruit on your balcony</strong>.</p>

<h2>Tips for balcony gardening</h2>

<p>When gardening on a balcony, there are a few things to bear in mind:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Pots filled with wet soil can be weighty, so take care not to overload your balcony. Lightweight plastic or fibreglass pots are a better bet than heavy terracotta, provided they are securely fixed down and won&rsquo;t blow around.</li>
	<li>Most fruit needs at least 6 hours of sun per day, but there are also fruits which will do well on a shady balcony, like alpine strawberries, gooseberries and blackcurrants. Look at how much sun your balcony gets and choose the fruits that will grow best there.</li>
	<li>Balconies are often windy, so put up a windbreak to protect your plants. Bamboo cane screening fixed to the balcony railings in the direction of the prevailing wind (usually the west-facing side) is ideal.</li>
	<li>Look for clever space-saving solutions like balcony planters that hook over balcony railings.</li>
</ul>

<h2>Balcony gardens and pollination</h2>

<p>All plants need to be pollinated to produce fruit. Some fruits need to be pollinated by a different variety of that fruit, while others are self-fertile. Since space is limited on a balcony, plant self-fertile fruit varieties wherever possible, it&rsquo;s also worth having a few flowering plants to attract bees and other pollinators to your balcony garden. Coastal and Mediterranean plants such as sea thrift, lavender and thyme cope well with exposed conditions on balconies and are great for attracting pollinators.</p>

<h2>Fruit to grow on balconies</h2>

<ul>
	<li>Strawberries are easy to grow in pots and look good even when the strawberry harvest is over.</li>
	<li>Ballerina apples are ideal for pots with their very upright shape, and fruits held on short side stems off the main trunk. However, they are not self-fertile, so you&rsquo;ll need a second apple tree or crab apple nearby to allow for pollination. Apple trees need at least 6 hours of sun a day to do well.</li>
	<li>Blueberries need acidic soil, so they&rsquo;re ideal for pots filled with ericaceous compost. Their white spring flowers and beautiful autumn foliage give them added appeal. If you only have space for one plant, choose a self-fertile variety like &lsquo;Bluecrop&rsquo;&nbsp;but if possible, grow two different types for a better harvest.</li>
	<li>Gooseberries will grow well in a large pot filled with loam-based compost, and they can cope with some shade.&nbsp; They&rsquo;re self-fertile, so you only need one plant for a good harvest.</li>
</ul>

<p>With our superb range of soft fruit and fruit trees to choose from, you&rsquo;ll soon be harvesting your own delicious fresh fruit. Visit us soon to get your balcony garden started!</p>

How to grow fruit on your balcony

<p>If you are wondering <strong>what to sow in the kitchen garden in May</strong>, which is a time of year when there is so much to do in the garden, we have got you covered!</p>

<p>If you are wondering <strong>what to sow in the kitchen garden in May</strong>, which is a time of year when there is so much to do in the garden, we have got you covered! Sometimes this time of year can feel a bit overwhelming with lots of jobs to do and seeds to sow, plants to pot on, harden off and plant out but keeping a list of jobs to do and ticking them off as you go along can be helpful. The same applies to sowing seeds. Keep this list of seeds to sow with you, and as you work your way through the list, you can tick each item off and know you are getting through the spring jobs in the garden.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Sow annual flower seeds in the kitchen garden in May&nbsp;</h2>
<p>May is the perfect time to sow your annual flower seeds for a summer display of flowers which you can also cut for the vase. Prepare where you want them to grow, ensuring the soil is fine and moist, then sprinkle your seeds thinly, lightly cover over and make sure there are no weeds as the roots are growing. Check the seed packet for specific instructions. Annuals to sow include:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>Marigolds</li>
<li>Sunflowers</li>
<li>Nasturtiums&nbsp;</li>
<li>Cornflower</li>
<li>Wildflower mixes</li>
<li>Calendula</li>
<li>Cosmos</li>
<li>Ageratum&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>Vegetable seeds to sow in the kitchen garden in May</h2>
<p>As the weather warms up and the soil temperatures rise, many seeds can be sown. Perhaps none as satisfying as those that become something you can eat! Direct sowing where the plants will grow is a great way to save space indoors or in the greenhouse, if you run out due to many trays of seeds already growing. Here are some of the seeds you can sow in May.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>Courgette</li>
<li>Sweet corn</li>
<li>Broccoli</li>
<li>Brussel sprouts</li>
<li>Cauliflower</li>
<li>Kale</li>
<li>Peas</li>
<li>Swede</li>
</ul>
<h2>Salad seeds to sow in the kitchen garden in May</h2>
<p>Salads are some of the most accessible seeds to germinate and grow. They can be grown in containers, window boxes, hanging baskets, or beds and borders. Great fun for kids too! If you regularly sow salads seeds, you can be harvesting from in as little as a few weeks after sowing and all the way through into autumn.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>Lettuce</li>
<li>Spinach</li>
<li>Spring Onions&nbsp;</li>
<li>Carrots</li>
<li>Microgreens</li>
<li>Mizuna</li>
<li>Bok Choy</li>
<li>Chard</li>
</ul>
<p>It’s easy to get growing, and seed sowing is one of the most cost-effective and fun ways to grow your own food. We have a vast seed selection in store, come and visit us to choose yours.&nbsp;</p>

What to sow in the kitchen garden in May

<p>May’s such a beautiful month for gardening, with warm spring weather and plants bursting into bloom. Read our <strong>15 gardening tips for May</strong>.</p>

<p>May’s a beautiful month to get out into the garden, with spring in full bloom and everything bursting back into life.&nbsp; Here are our <strong>15&nbsp;gardening tips for May</strong> to get your garden looking its best for summer.</p>
<h2>May's 15&nbsp;gardening tips</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Plant summer bedding in pots, windowboxes and hanging baskets to add instant colour to patios and front steps. In colder areas of the country, wait until the end of the month to avoid any last cold snaps.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Once the leaves of spring bulbs like daffodils, bluebells and tulips have died back, cut them off at ground level. Lift and divide overgrown clumps of spring bulbs.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow annuals like sunflowers, poppies and cornflowers outdoors for a fantastic summer display.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow courgettes, runner beans and French beans in pots in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill for planting out next month.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Earth up potatoes to keep the tubers covered – if they are exposed to sunlight, they will turn green and become toxic. Plant them this month if you still have any maincrop seed potatoes.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Pot your tomato seedlings into larger pots, but wait until the end of the month to plant tomatoes outdoors, and remember to harden them off first.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow basil seeds in pots on a sunny windowsill for a constant supply of tasty leaves all through summer. You can also sow coriander outdoors now.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow a new batch of salad leaves every couple of weeks for fresh salads throughout summer.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>It’s not too soon to start sowing your winter vegetables! Sow kale in pots in the greenhouse and parsnips and Brussels sprouts directly outdoors where they are to grow.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Make the best use of your water by watering plants in the early mornings or the evenings, constantly watering the earth, not the foliage. Install a waterbutt to collect rainwater and use this for watering – it’s perfect for plants.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Keep on top of weeds, especially in the vegetable garden. Run a Dutch hoe over the ground to clear annual weeds on dry days. Perennial weeds with long taproots, like docks and dandelions, can be tackled with a hand fork or dandelion grubber.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Take care when trimming hedges – always check that there are no birds nesting in the hedge before you start cutting. Remember, it’s illegal to disturb nesting birds.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Once they've finished flowering, prune spring-flowering shrubs like forsythia, Japanese quince, flowering currants and choisya to keep them looking neat.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Now that the frosts are over, it’s time to prune Group 1 clematis like Clematis montana and Clematis armandii that flower early in the year. Cut back as needed to keep them to size.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Water container plants regularly even if it rains, as their foliage often stops the rainwater from reaching the compost. Feed them fortnightly with a balanced liquid feed.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Whether you’re sowing, planting or planning for great summer garden parties, visit our centre, and you’ll find everything you need!</p>

15 gardening tips for May

<p>Houseplants are pot grown, and therefore, the compost will run out of nutrients very quickly, so adding the feed to your watering regime is needed to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to grow.</p>

<p>Time to <strong>feed your houseplants</strong>, so get prepared with everything you need to make sure your houseplants are ready for the boost to burst into active growth throughout late spring and the summer months. Many houseplants need less water and no feeding over the colder months of the year, but as soon as the weather heats up, you'll know it's time to start watering more and feeding your plants. This will help to keep them healthy.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>When to feed your houseplants</h2>
<p>Houseplants are pot grown, and therefore, the compost will run out of nutrients very quickly, so adding the feed to your watering regime is needed to ensure your plants get the nutrients they need to grow. Average potting soil holds enough nutrients for around six weeks. After this time, you'll need to add plant food every four to six weeks in spring and summer. If you don't feed your houseplants, they tend to underachieve. Give them&nbsp;regular&nbsp;health boosts to show lush, attractive foliage. Flowering houseplants need more food than foliage plants.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Know what is in the bottle before you feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>All houseplant feed will contain:</p>
<ul>
<li>nitrogen (N)</li>
<li>phosphorus (P)</li>
<li>potassium (K)</li>
</ul>
<p>The balance of these makes the feed right for your plants. Always check the label on any houseplant feed you are looking to purchase to check if these three are on the label. You will also see varying levels of other minerals such as calcium (Ca), magnesium (Mg) and chlorine (Cl).&nbsp;</p>
<h2>What houseplant feed to use to feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Depending on what plants you feed, there are slight variations in the food you need. There are good all-round plant fertilisers that will benefit all plants but knowing a little more in-depth can help you make the right decision. If you have houseplants that are all foliage, the feed you choose could be higher in nitrogen, which will help the plant produce lush foliage. If you have an indoor plant that flowers and fruits, a tomato feed can be beneficial as it is high in potassium. &nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;</p>
<h2>Feed your houseplants and know which need feeding</h2>
<p>You can feed orchids with a special Orchid feed found in the store. Always follow the instructions. Cacti won't need feed, but they might flower and will grow quicker if you do. Houseplants that prefer acidic soil, such as African Daisies, will require an ericaceous fertiliser, and carnivorous plants won't need any extra feed at all. Most other houseplants can be fed with a general houseplant feed.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to feed your houseplants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>There are many different types of feeds and a few different ways of feeding. Diluted liquid feed in water is easy and can just be added to your regular watering rota. Generally, adding plant feed into the water every two weeks will be enough but always read the instructions and recommendations. There are also pelleted feeds, and slow-release drip feeds that can be useful when away from home.&nbsp;</p>
<p>We have houseplants and fertilisers in store, visit us and add to your collection.</p>

Feed your houseplants

<p>We’ve put together our top tips on how to get your garden into shape for the summer.</p>

<p dir="ltr">Make the most of this <strong>Bank holiday</strong>! Spend a couple of hours in your garden now and you’ll reap the rewards in the coming months, with beds filled with flowers and huge harvests in the veg plot. We’ve put together our top tips on how to get your garden into shape for the summer.</p>
<h2>Bank holiday gardening tips</h2>
<ol>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Make sure your garden is ready to party if the sun suddenly comes out, by filling pots and borders with summer bedding for instant colour. Surround seating areas with scented plants like dianthus, sweet peas and petunias for an instant mood-boosting effect every time you step outdoors.</p>
</li>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Get ready for great summer harvests by sowing courgettes, runner beans and French beans in pots in a greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill, ready for planting out next month. You can also sow basil indoors now and coriander directly outdoors for a supply of fresh leaves through summer.</p>
</li>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">You don’t need a big wildflower meadow to give pollinators a treat. Sowing annuals like cornflowers, poppies, scabious and nigella now will give your borders a soft, informal wildflower look as well as provide nectar for butterflies, bees and other beneficial insects.</p>
</li>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Give your garden birds a helping hand as they raise their newly-hatched young in spring. Hang a bird feeder in a tree or large shrub where birds will feel safe from cats and other predators, and remember to top it up regularly. Adding a birdbath will give them somewhere to wash and drink, bringing more birds into the garden and giving you hours of pleasure.</p>
</li>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Build a pond to attract frogs, newts and other wildlife into the garden. If you’re short on space, you can even create a mini-pond in a large bowl on a patio. Add a few aquatic plants and you’re good to go!</p>
</li>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Plant an alpine trough. Alpines are very low-maintenance once planted, and their delicate miniature flowers are a perennial delight. They need a very free-draining soil, so fill a container with a 50/50 mix of grit and loam-based compost and plant your alpines in this. Top-dress with a thin layer of gravel – as well as looking good, this stops compost splashing up onto the leaves when you water.</p>
</li>
<li aria-level="1" dir="ltr">
<p dir="ltr" role="presentation">Try some companion planting in your vegetable garden to keep pests away from your plants. Sow nasturtiums around the edge of veg beds to attract aphids away from your crop, plant French marigolds around your tomato seedlings to repel greenfly and sow Limnanthes douglasii (poached egg plant) to attract pollinators for a fantastic harvest.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p dir="ltr">Whether you’re sowing seeds, planting or simply planning for the summer, you’ll find what you need in our centre, and our friendly staff are always on hand to help and advise!</p>

7 top garden tips for the Bank Holiday weekend

<p>Knowing the correct times to prune shrubs throughout the year can help keep your garden looking good and thriving.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Knowing when to <strong>prune summer blooming shrubs</strong> is essential to ensure your shrubs thrive and flower just when they should. Pruning helps with the health and longevity of the shrub and helps prevent pests and diseases as well. Knowing the correct times to prune shrubs throughout the year can help keep your garden looking good and thriving.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Identify your shrubs</h2>
<p>You'll need to identify your shrubs to determine when you need to prune them. If&nbsp;you don't know which are growing in your garden, we recommend noting when each shrub flowers at&nbsp;what time of year. During spring, write down all of the shrubs that flower.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Shrubs that flower in summer</strong> produce their flowers on new growth from the current season. Prune them in winter, when they're dormant, or in early spring before their new growth starts. Shrubs that belong to this group are potentilla&nbsp;and crape myrtle.</li>
<li>If your <strong>deciduous shrubs</strong> flower from November to June, they can be pruned after flowering. Deadhead old flowers and remove damaged, diseased and straggly growth. This group includes&nbsp;shrubs such as Weigela, Ribes and Kerria.</li>
<li>Most <strong>evergreens</strong> can be pruned before new growth begins in early spring (but after frosts have passed) but if they are flowering or ready to, make sure you don't snip off the blooms and wait until after flowering.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>When to prune summer-blooming shrubs&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Decidious plants and shrubs that flower from July to October should be pruned back in the springtime. Plants will store energy to produce new shoots on new growth from early summer. The timing of pruning is essential, so you don't prune away the shoots that will later flower. These will include shrubs such as Buddleja, Hydrangea paniculata and Spirea japonica.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Remember there are other times to prune&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Besides the shrubs mentioned above, some shrubs need a prune at different times. For example, deciduous trees and shrubs such as Forsythia and Syringa can be pruned between November to March with a hard prune back, and evergreen shrubs can be tidied up in later winter and early spring or after flowering.&nbsp;</p>
<p>There are many shrubs and subgroups for pruning. If you are unsure which to prune at various times of the year, there are many more resources online, but we are always happy to help and advise you when you visit us in store. Our knowledgeable staff can tell you everything about how and when to prune your shrubs.</p>
<h2>Use the right tools when pruning summer-blooming shrubs</h2>
<p>Ease the gardening job by using the right tools. When pruning your summer-blooming or other shrubs, you must use sharp pruning shears and secateurs. The best tools for pruning depend on the pruning job. If you need to cut large branches, we recommend using a pruning saw, electric or manual. If you only need to cut back small branches,&nbsp;sharp secateurs are enough. Discover different brands of pruning tools at our garden centre. Don't forget your garden gloves, especially when pruning roses. They can't be overlooked. If you can't find the right tool, please ask our staff at the garden centre, they're always willing to help.&nbsp;</p>
<p>For pruning accessories and, of course, shrubs to prune, visit us in %locations%&nbsp;and pick your perfect shrub.&nbsp;</p>

Prune Summer Blooming Shrubs

<p>This <strong>how-to grow a grapevine guide</strong> will help you grow your own thriving vine and harvest a satisfying crop of grapes.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to grow a grapevine guide</strong> will help you grow your own thriving vine and harvest a satisfying crop of grapes. You might even be able to make your own wine. Growing grapevines has become more prevalent in recent years, and with just a few tips, such as what soil they prefer and how to care for them, you’ll be well on your way to harvesting your first bunches of delicious grapes.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to grow a grapevine starts with the position</h2>
<p>Imagine the vineyards of Italy or Spain, and you will no doubt envisage the blue, sunny skies. Grapevines grow best in warm, bright areas and well-drained soil. You’ll need a sheltered space for your vines, ideally against a south-facing wall or up a pergola. South-west facing is also excellent; you could even grow them in large containers. If that’s not possible, you can grow grapevines in a greenhouse.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Soil is important to learn how to grow a grapevine&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Fortunately, grapevines tolerate many different soil types. The key is to make sure it is well-drained soil. If your soil isn’t free draining, add some well-rotted organic matter and some sandy or horticultural grit. You can also test your soil pH with a soil testing kit, which is easy and fun. Grapevines prefer a pH of 6.5 to 6.8.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to grow a grapevine with watering and feeding needs</h2>
<p>If you have just planted new grapevines, they will need regular watering to help them settle and establish. If you have an older grapevine, it will need very little water and are quite drought tolerant. However, as they grow during the growing season, water about every ten days to keep the roots moist and prevent disease. If you grow in a greenhouse, your vines will need regular watering. Mulching vines is helpful not just for moisture retention but also for nutrients. Well-rotted organic matter can be used and feeding greenhouse-grown vines with tomato feed (high in potassium) every couple of weeks can also be beneficial.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to grow a grapevine and prune it</h2>
<p>There are two methods of pruning - Guyot System and Rod and Spur. Mainly pruning is undertaken during early winter with regular maintenance throughout the year.</p>
<ol>
<li>The Guyot system is for grapevines grown outside and trains fruiting arms along wires.</li>
<li>The Rod and Spur method is for greenhouse grapevines and those growing against walls.</li>
</ol>
<p>There are many resources online with more detail.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>General care for your grapevines&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Hot, dry weather can contribute to mildew, and you might find wasps enjoying the vines. Wasp traps can be helpful and ensure there is plenty of air circulation with good pruning and watering in dry weather.&nbsp;</p>
<p>For grapevines, pruning accessories and advice - visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

How to grow a grapevine

<p>Read&nbsp;our top tips on <strong>selecting the best boxes for your garden birds</strong>.</p>

<p>Adding a <strong>nest box</strong> to your <strong>garden</strong> can provide small birds with a home and give you the chance to learn more about these beautiful creatures. Watching birds nesting is a real thrill, and by putting up nest boxes you can encourage more birds to make their homes in your garden. For the best results, it’s crucial to have the correct type of nest box in the right place, so we’ve put together our top tips on selecting the best boxes for your garden birds.</p>
<h2>Types of nest boxes</h2>
<p>There are two main types of nest boxes:</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Open-fronted boxes</strong>: are used by birds such as robins, song thrushes and blackbirds that usually nest in thick undergrowth.</li>
<li><strong>Boxes with an entrance hole in the front</strong>: are available with holes of different sizes to suit different bird species. These boxes are often used by tits, sparrows and starlings, which might otherwise nest in rot holes in tree trunks or other cavities.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<h2>Hole sizes and openings for nest boxes</h2>
<p>You’ll need to select a nest box with a suitable entrance hole size or opening for the birds most likely to use it. Here are the hole diameter sizes and openings recommended by the RSPB for some common garden birds:</p>
<ul>
<li>Blue tits and coal tits: 25mm entrance hole</li>
<li>Great tits, pied flycatchers and tree sparrows: 28mm entrance hole</li>
<li>House sparrows and nuthatches: 32mm entrance hole</li>
<li>Starling: 45mm entrance hole</li>
<li>Spotted flycatchers: 60mm high open front panel</li>
<li>Robins and pied wagtails: 100mm high open front panel</li>
<li>Wrens: 140mm high open front panel</li>
</ul>
<h2>Where to place nest boxes</h2>
<p>For the best results, follow these tips when siting your nest box:</p>
<ul>
<li>Never place a nest box in a south-facing location where it will get sunlight all day, as it will get too hot inside the box, and the young birds could die. Avoid west-facing spots, too, as the box will be in the direct path of prevailing westerly winds. A sheltered north or north-east facing position is ideal.</li>
<li>Ensure the birds have a clear flight path into the box, with no trees or other obstacles in the way.</li>
<li>Hide open-fronted boxes amongst the foliage to screen them from predators.</li>
<li>Place nest boxes at least 1.5m above ground level. Tits and sparrows will usually use boxes placed between 2-and 4m high. House sparrows, swifts and starlings prefer a box set under the eaves of a house.</li>
<li>Put up your nest boxes in autumn or early winter, as birds can start looking for nesting sites in January and will also often use nest boxes as shelters in winter. It can sometimes take up to a year for birds to find and use a nest box. If your nest box is still not used after a year, try moving it to a different spot.</li>
</ul>
<p>Bring more birds into your garden with our fantastic range of nest boxes, feeders and other birdcare products. Visit our centre in %locations%&nbsp;to find everything you need!</p>

Choosing the right nest box for your garden birds

<p>If you&rsquo;re just starting your gardening journey, here&rsquo;s our guide to some of the tools you&rsquo;ll need and what they do.</p>

<p>Having the <strong>right garden tools</strong> makes everything in the garden so much easier. If you&rsquo;re just starting your gardening journey, here&rsquo;s our guide to some of the tools you&rsquo;ll need and what they do.</p>

<h2>Ten excellent garden tools</h2>

<ul>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Garden spades</strong> are sturdy with broadheads and are ideal for digging big holes, lifting turf and shovelling compost. Border spades are similar but have narrower heads. They&rsquo;re lighter than garden spades and easier to use in borders for digging in between plants.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Garden forks</strong> have long, solid handles and sturdy prongs, ideal for breaking up compacted soil. They&rsquo;re also helpful in aerating compacted lawns. Border forks are like garden forks but lighter, with narrower heads.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hand trowels</strong> are small but sturdy, perfect for digging small holes and planting in beds and containers.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hand forks</strong> are incredibly useful for weeding and harvesting small root vegetables such as carrots and beetroots. Just push the fork&rsquo;s prongs into the soil under the roots of a weed or a plant you want to move, and lever the plant out of the ground, using your other hand to guide the plant.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Secateurs</strong> are cutting tools ideal for pruning small shrubs, deadheading and cutting back perennials. They fall into two main categories: bypass secateurs and anvil secateurs. Bypass secateurs have two sharp blades that cut using a scissor-like action, whereas anvil secateurs have one blade that closes against a flat metal or plastic plate. Bypass secateurs are suitable for precision pruning on soft or pliable stems, and anvil secateurs are ideal for old, woody stems.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Loppers</strong> are great for cutting branches that are too thick for secateurs. They have long handles, giving more leverage for tough jobs. Ratchet loppers have a geared mechanism that offers even more power, perfect for anyone with reduced strength in their hands.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Hedge shears</strong> with long, sharp blades are just what&rsquo;s needed to give a crisp, clean edge to hedges or topiary.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Soil rakes</strong> have a straight head with strong teeth, ideal for breaking up clods of soil to produce a level, crumbly soil texture ready for sowing. Plastic-headed lawn rakes, also called spring tine or springbok rakes, are used for raking leaves, while metal-headed lawn rakes can be raked firmly through a lawn to remove moss.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p><strong>Patio weeders</strong> have a sharp right-angled blade, ideal for getting rid of weeds between paving slabs without having to resort to chemicals.</p>
	</li>
</ul>

<p>Whatever garden job you want to tackle, we have just the tools for it in our garden centre, and our friendly staff are always on hand for some free advice!</p>

Everything you need to know about gardening tools

<p>Time to <strong>start feeding your garden plants</strong> as many come into active growth and the temperatures increase.</p>

<p>Time to <strong>start feeding your garden plants</strong> as many come into active growth and the temperatures increase. Fertilising garden plants means providing them with the right levels of nutrients so they can thrive and survive, giving you a display of abundant flowers, fruits and vegetables. Fertilisers are used to boost flowering and is specifically useful for plants growing in containers.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Why start feeding your garden plants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Container plants can only get the nutrients that you supply them with, so they will need to be given feed as the soil they grow in will soon be depleted of nutrients as the plants grow so this is usually essential. However, plants in beds and borders might not need feeding at all because it is actually quite rare that soil has little nutrients according to an RHS study. To benefit from a good crop of fruits and vegetables, some can do better with regular feed such as tomatoes and cucumbers grown in pots. Plants need a range of suitable growing conditions to thrive, from water to sunlight and of course nutrients. What you will provide them with when using fertilisers is nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Look out for those on the fertilisers you choose and look for organic fertilisers too.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>What to start feeding your garden plants with</h2>
<p>Fertilisers will contain the nutrients needed often in liquid or pellet forms and there are many different types of synthetic fertilisers to choose from. There are also plant-based fertilisers and natural types too such as homemade garden compost, well-rotted manure and even seaweed so choose which is best for you and the environment.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How and when to start feeding your garden plants</h2>
<p>Generally, you will know if your plants need extra feeding if they are looking unwell. Plants tell you when they need something! Look for yellowing, low fruiting or flowers, limited growth and feed between spring and summer as there is no need to feed during the dormant months.</p>
<ul>
<li>Slow-release fertilisers release nutrients over time and can save you from having to reapply too often.</li>
<li>Liquid fertilisers that will need diluting as per instructions with water and applied to the soil.</li>
<li>Pelleted fertilisers can simply be sprinkled on top of others mixed in with the compost.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>Your choice of fertiliser depends on what is easiest for you and best for your plants and wildlife.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Speak to any member of our team when you visit us in the store for advice about fertilising plants.&nbsp;</p>

Feeding your garden plants

<p>There are so many spring-flowering plants for the garden so we have picked out some of our favourites for you to ensure you have a colourful spring.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Enjoying <strong>spring-flowering garden plants</strong> is one of the great joys of springtime. When there is suddenly lots of colour in the garden, it can really lift everyone's mood after a long winter. As bulbs pop up through the earth and those recognisable spring flowers start to bloom, the weather begins to warm, and seeds begin to emerge. Blossoms on the trees fill the air with fragrance as hedgerows begin to turn green and birds busily start finding nesting places and provide us with morning bird songs. There are so many spring-flowering plants for the garden, so we have picked out some of our favourites for you to ensure you have a colourful spring.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Spring-flowering flower bulbs&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Spring wouldn't be the same without flower bulbs. Have you planted your spring bulbs last autumn? In case you didn't, we've got your back. Visit our garden centre for bright spring-flowering bulbs&nbsp;such as:</p>
<ul>
<li>Daffodils,</li>
<li>Tulips,</li>
<li>Muscari,</li>
<li>Hyacinth,</li>
<li>Crocus.</li>
</ul>
<p>There are so many beautiful colours of spring and many different varieties. Spring flowering bulbs are planted in autumn and will flower the following year. Choose from bright yellow to white and even pink Daffodils and hundreds of different colours and varieties of Tulips from parrot to Darwin, and you'll have a stunning spring garden. Hyacinths bring the fragrance and Crocus the delicate beauty of early spring. A mix of them will provide you with cut flowers for a spring vase.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Alternative bulbs for spring flowering garden plants&nbsp;</h2>
<ol>
<li>While Anemones are well known, they don't tend to be top of the spring bulb list, but we think they should be! From the most stunning purple colours to bright red, they give a tremendous pop in the garden.</li>
<li>Ranunculus, with its many layers of petals in late spring/early summer, is great as a cut flower and is available in many colours.</li>
<li>Fritillaria imperialis provides a tropical look in the garden with bright orange or yellow flowers.</li>
<li>Scilla takes your spring garden to another level with its rich blue carpeting of the borders.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<h2>Perennial spring-flowering garden plants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Many perennials brighten up the garden during spring, from the pink and purple flowers of Pulmonaria to brightly coloured Erysimum attracting early bees, not forgetting wildflowers such as Red Dead Nettle and Dandelion too. Perennials will live on for many years. If you plant them in the garden, please check if your conditions are suitable for the perennial. Whether you have a shady spot or a full sun border, we have a proper spring perennial for you!</p>
<h2>Spring-flowering trees&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Spring blossom is a sight to behold. There is something so uplifting about seeing trees full of white and pink blossoms. Cherry blossom and Crab Apple are well-recognised blossoms, and soon edible buds will form on native Hawthorns as well. Put some into a salad for a delicate coconut flavour but leave plenty on the tree! Magnolia trees also grace gardens during spring and always bring a spring smile to a gardener's face.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Visit us in %locations% to find your following spring-flowering plants in store.</p>

Spring-flowering garden plants

<p>Our <strong>top 7 vegetable gardening hacks</strong> will have you looking at your vegetable garden in a different way.</p>

<p>Whether you're a novice vegetable grower&nbsp;or have grown your own food for years, there's always something new to learn and ways to make the job easier or more fun. Our <strong>top 7 vegetable gardening hacks</strong> will have you looking at your vegetable garden differently.</p>
<h2>Fantastic vegetable hacks you must know</h2>
<p>If you love growing vegetables but are curious about hacks that increase your harvest, please read these seven tips for growing fresh vegetables in your own garden.&nbsp;</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Aphids are a perennial problem for gardeners, infesting plants and reducing their vigour. To deter aphids without chemical sprays, try planting French marigolds nearby, as their scent is said to repel the pests. Nasturtiums also work well as a sacrificial plant in vegetable plots, attracting aphids away from your crops.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Try a garlic spray if slugs and snails are devouring your young seedlings. Blitz a bulb of garlic and a litre of water in a food processor, leave to stand for 10 minutes, then strain off the liquid and pour it into a spray bottle. Douse your plants with it in the evenings to repel slugs and snails.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Watering your vegetables in summer can be hard work, so it's essential to be sure the water is getting to the roots where it's needed. Create a reservoir for each plant by cutting a plastic bottle in half, removing the cap and sinking the top half of the bottle upside down in the ground next to the plant. Fill the reservoir with water, and it will soak out into the bottom right at the plant's roots.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Vegetables grown in pots can dry out quickly in hot weather. To create your own watering system, wash out an empty wine bottle, make a hole in the cap, fill the bottle with water and put the cap back on. Place the bottle upside down in a pot, and the water will gradually trickle out into the soil.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Line the bottom of a pot with a clean coffee filter before filling it with compost. This means that water runs more slowly out of the pot, giving the compost time to absorb it and reducing water wastage.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Make your own cloches by cutting large plastic milk bottles in half and using the top halves to cover new seedlings or young plants. Leave the caps off so that air can circulate around the plants.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>It's surprising what you can grow from kitchen scraps. When using spring onions in cooking, leave around 5cm of the white base. Place this in a glass of water and put it on a sunny windowsill. Change the water every other day, and the bulb will grow roots and new leaves. Carrot tops, left to dry for 2-3 days, then planted in compost, will grow leafy tops that can be blanched or sauteed as leafy greens.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Get your vegetable gardening off to a great start this year with our fantastic range of seeds, plants, tools and compost. You'll find everything you need in our centre in %locations%.</p>

7 great vegetable gardening hacks

<p>Here are our <strong>top tips for April lawn care</strong>.</p>

<p>Winter can be tough on lawns, so as the weather warms up and the days get brighter, it’s good to pay your lawn some attention to get it back into shape for the summer. Here are our <strong>top tips for April lawn care</strong>.</p>
<h2>Lawn care tips for April</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Consider mowing less often for a more wildlife-friendly lawn, and leave your lawnmower blades on a higher setting. This allows low-growing plants like self-heal, buttercups, clover and other wildflowers to thrive, providing pollen for bees and other pollinators. If you prefer the look of a neatly mown lawn, why not leave a small area unmown as a wildlife haven?</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>For short turf, start mowing more regularly this month as the grass begins to grow again after winter. Make sure your mower blades are sharp and don’t mow when the grass is wet. It’s often best to mow in the afternoons to give the dew time to dry off in the mornings. Initially, trim with the lawnmower blades on a high setting, gradually moving to a lower setting as the growing season progresses.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Give your lawn a boost after winter with a proprietary spring lawn feed. This will contain a balanced mix of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium to promote the growth of strong, healthy grass that can out-compete weeds and moss.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>As the grass starts to grow, lawn weeds like dandelions and docks will begin to appear too. Keep on top of them by digging them out by hand (there are special tools available to help tackle dandelions and other weeds with long taproots). If there are too many weeds to tackle by hand, wait until next month and treat them with a lawn weedkiller. It’s best to wait at least two weeks after feeding the lawn to apply weedkiller.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Tackle moss in your lawn by raking it with a spring tine rake. If necessary, you can apply moss killer (always following the manufacturer’s instructions) and rake out the dead moss once the moss killer has taken effect. Dead moss takes a long time to break down, so it’s best not to add it to a compost heap.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If your lawn has bare patches, now’s the time to tackle them. It’s now also ideal to sow seed for new lawns, as the soil has started to warm up. Before sowing, prepare your soil by breaking it up with a garden fork and raking it over to produce a level surface with a fine, crumbly texture. Sow the seed and lightly rake it in. You may need to net the area after sowing to stop birds from eating all your grass seed! If there is no rain for a couple of days, water the site using a sprinkler or a watering can with a fine rose.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Our range of lawn care tools, feed and seed, will have your lawn looking lush and inviting this summer, so visit our centre soon!</p>

6 lawn care tips for April

<p>Here are six of our <strong>favourite flowering cherries</strong> and how to grow them.</p>

<p>With their beautiful spring blossom and vibrant autumn foliage, flowering cherry trees are fantastic for any garden. And with so many different varieties to choose from, there’s one to suit even the smallest space. Here are six of our <strong>favourite flowering cherries</strong> and how to grow them.</p>
<h2>How to grow flowering cherry trees</h2>
<p>Flowering cherries grow well in a sunny spot, sheltered from strong winds that could strip the blossom in spring. They will cope with most garden soils but don’t like heavy clay – moist, well-drained soil is ideal. Mulch annually in spring with well-rotted farmyard manure. Flowering cherries don’t need regular pruning. If you do need to prune – for example, to remove damaged or crossing branches – do it in summer to avoid the risk of silver leaf disease.</p>
<h2>6 top flowering cherries</h2>
<p>There’s a wide range of flowering cherries, including big, spreading trees, narrow upright varieties and dwarf trees small enough for a large pot. Here are six of our favourites:</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Prunus avium ‘Plena’ – a cultivar of our native wild cherry, with elegant hanging clusters of pristine white double flowers in spring. In autumn, the leaves turn vibrant crimson. This large flowering cherry needs plenty of space, as it can grow to 20m tall.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prunus ‘Kanzan’ – this medium-sized tree is one of the most famous Japanese flowering cherries, with abundant deep pink double flowers in spring. The new leaves emerge bronze before turning green in summer and brilliant orange in autumn. Height and spread in 20 years: 6m x 4m</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prunus ‘Amanogawa’ AGM – one of the best flowering cherries for small gardens, thanks to its narrow columnar shape. In late spring, the branches are covered in semi-double pale pink blossom, and the leaves turn vibrant shades of orange and yellow in autumn. Height and spread in 20 years: 6m x 2m</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prunus ‘Pink Shell’ – another excellent tree for small gardens, with a spreading shape and hanging clusters of pale pink flowers in spring. The leaves turn bright orange in autumn. Height and spread in 10 years: 3m x 4m</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prunus ‘Taihaku’ AGM – this legendary flowering cherry had become extinct in its native Japan. Still, in 1932 a single specimen was found in a garden in Sussex, allowing it to be reintroduced to Japan. A medium-sized tree has masses of large snow-white flowers in spring and bronze new leaves that turn green in summer and then yellow and orange in autumn. Height and spread in 20 years: 6m x 5m</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prunus ‘Kojou-no-mai’ – a dwarf flowering cherry, low and spreading with elegant twisty branches, perfect for a large pot on a sunny patio. In early spring, the bare branches are covered with tiny pale pink flowers, and the leaves turn a rich red in autumn. Height and spread in 20 years: 2m x 2m</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Our centre has a superb range of flowering cherries and other ornamental trees. Visit us today and pick the one that’s perfect for your garden!</p>

6 fantastic flowering cherry trees and how to grow them

<p>There are many ways to <strong>support wildlife in April,</strong>&nbsp;so don’t forget to keep wildlife in mind with your general gardening tasks.</p>

<p>There are many ways to <strong>support wildlife in April,</strong>&nbsp;so don’t forget to keep wildlife in mind with your general gardening tasks. If you look after your local wildlife, it can have a massive impact on your garden’s success and your own well-being. A more biodiverse garden means more enjoyment and well-being. It’s a joy to watch birds visit the garden and hear the croak of a toad. Everyone loves spotting a bee pollinating plants and the flutter of a butterfly. Gardening with wildlife in mind is good for you and wildlife and the environment.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to support wildlife in April with bird feeders</h2>
<p>Bird feeders are a great way to supplement bird food in your garden. Ideally, lots of native hedging full of berries, trees and shrubs will attract a whole host of birds, but many will still need supplementary feeding. From wooden bird tables to metal hanging peanut holders, there are many options to suit your garden. Make sure you will them up with feed appropriate for birds and place them away from predators.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Planting for pollinators is how to support wildlife in April&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Pollinators are essential for the environment. Not only are bees pollinators but also beetles, lacewings, butterflies, ladybugs and many more. When you choose your plants, look out for the label that shows if they are suitable for pollinators, often represented by a bee graphic, these plants provide nectar, homes and other food, and as they visit, they will then go on to pollinate your crops making it a win-win for all.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to support wildlife in April with a wild garden&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Your garden doesn’t have to be perfect. And even if you do want it to be formal, leaving an area to grow wild will be hugely beneficial to wildlife. Tall grasses, unexpected wildflowers, and even clover in your lawn. All of this attracts wildlife who will both feed and find homes in your area of the wild. If you allow a patch to grow wild, you never know what you might find. Moths and butterflies plus ladybugs, millipedes and beetles will all thank you for it.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Ponds are one way how to support wildlife in April&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Even if you don’t have a big space, wildlife ponds can support many species. A small pond can easily be made in a garden or allotment filled with</p>
<ul>
<li>oxygenating,</li>
<li>marginal,</li>
<li>and even water lily plants.</li>
</ul>
<p>A pond can be an excellent addition. You’ll spot toads and even bees drinking from the water in no time. Ensure your pond can be accessed by wildlife by ensuring there is something both in and around the edges to climb in and safely back out. Pebbles are ideal.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Support wildlife in your garden by visiting us in the store to choose from our wildlife range and ask for advice from any of our staff.&nbsp;</p>

How to support wildlife in April

<p>If you are wondering <strong>what to do in the kitchen garden in April</strong>, we’ve put this list together to keep you on track during a hectic time of year for gardeners.</p>

<p>If you are wondering <strong>what to do in the kitchen garden in April</strong>, we’ve put this list together to keep you on track during a hectic time of year for gardeners. There is an abundance of seeds to sow as the soil is heating up plus plenty of hardening off and even planting out (although beware of late frosts depending on where you are in the UK), there will be deadheading and new bed building, but amongst all of the tasks to do in the garden, remember to take it all in and enjoy the delightful bird song and be amazed at the new growth all around you.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Growing fruit in the kitchen garden</h2>
<p>With a chance of late frosts, it’s essential to keep some horticultural fleece nearby so you can wrap your fruit trees that are in blossom. Protecting the buds and blossoms will ensure they don’t get frostbite and go on to produce fruits. Mulch fruit with some well-rotted organic matter but leave space around the trunk, and if you are growing in a container, top-dress that to replenish the soil.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Homegrown vegetables in the kitchen garden</h2>
<p>It’s definitely the month to get weeding before they take over your beds. Don’t forget to know your weeds because many are edible, others can make natural plant feed, and many can still be composted. You can also warm up your soil to sow earlier by covering it over with some horticultural fleece. This can help to extend the growing season. If you want more growing space, it’s an excellent time to make new beds on a sunny spring day and mulch your soil ready for the growing season.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Sowing seeds in the kitchen garden</h2>
<p>Sowing seeds is a cheap and enjoyable way to grow vegetables and edible flowers. April is a big month for sowing, try:</p>
<ul>
<li>squash,</li>
<li>sunflowers,</li>
<li>marigolds,</li>
<li>courgette,</li>
<li>celery,</li>
<li>kale,</li>
<li>beans.</li>
</ul>
<p>The weather is warm enough for plenty of seed trays full of seedlings which will soon shoot up and catch up if you are concerned that you haven’t sown earlier in the year. If you have a sunny windowsill or a greenhouse, even cold frame seeds can be grown in there, but if not, direct sowing will work for many seeds such as calendula, beetroot, carrots, radish and Swiss chard.</p>
<h2>What you can do in the kitchen garden greenhouse</h2>
<p>If you have a greenhouse, make sure it is cleaned thoroughly, not just the glass but the staging, in the grooves and underneath. You’ll want to get rid of any overwintering pests and prevent diseases before you grow plants inside. If you use your greenhouse for storage, make sure everything is tidied, and you can access it easily when all of your plants are taking over.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Visit us for spring in store so you can pick from our seed range, pots and mulches to help bring your garden to life.&nbsp;</p>

What to do in the kitchen garden in April

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for April</strong>.</p>

<p>It’s April, and all around us, the garden is bursting back into life! As spring gets underway, now’s the perfect time to get outdoors and get your garden into shape for the coming year. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for April</strong>.</p>
<h2>15 gardening tips for April</h2>
<ol>
<li>Get your vegetable beds ready for the year by clearing them of weeds and digging in garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure. This will improve soil structure, retain moisture in dry summers and help soil drain better in wet years.</li>
<li>As roses, shrubs and trees start to put on new growth, scatter a slow-release general purpose fertiliser around the base and rake in. Follow this with a layer of mulch such as well-rotted farmyard manure or garden compost.</li>
<li>Lawns will be starting to grow now too, so give them a boost with a high-nitrogen feed, and use a garden fork or hollow-tine aerator to aerate compacted areas. April’s also a good time to sow seed or lay turf for new lawns.</li>
<li>Tie in any stray long shoots of climbing roses, honeysuckle and clematis. To encourage climbing roses to produce plenty of flowers, tie shoots so that they lie as close to horizontal as possible.</li>
<li>Now’s your chance to put in plant supports for tall perennials like asters, sanguisorba and verbena, so that plants can be trained through the supports as they grow (much easier than trying to fit them in once the plants have grown to full size and are flopping everywhere).</li>
<li>Lift and divide overgrown clumps of perennials like daylilies and hostas, and plant new perennials and shrubs to fill gaps in the border.</li>
<li>Once the frosts have passed, prune penstemons. If there’s new growth at the base of the plant, cut just above it, otherwise prune to just above the lowest new shoots.</li>
<li>Prune spring-flowering plants like forsythia and Japanese quince (Chaenomeles) once they have finished flowering.</li>
<li>Hard prune shrubby dogwoods (Cornus sibirica, C. sanguinea and C. alba) to encourage them to produce brightly coloured shoots for next winter’s display.</li>
<li>Trim lavender, making sure not to cut into the old wood.</li>
<li>Pinch out the growing tips of fuchsia and sweet pea seedlings to encourage bushy plants.</li>
<li>Deadhead spring bulbs like daffodils and tulips, leave the foliage to die back naturally.</li>
<li>Use a hoe or hand fork to keep beds clear of weeds as they appear.</li>
<li>Sow hardy annuals like poppies, cornflower and nigella outdoors, and sow broad beans, carrots, beetroot and parsnips in the veg garden.</li>
<li>Indoors, sow tomatoes, cucumbers, courgettes, pumpkins, runner beans and French beans, as well as nasturtiums, sunflowers and dahlias.</li>
</ol>
<p>Whether it’s seeds, plants, tools or pots, we’ve got everything you need to get your garden looking great. Visit our centre in %locations% to see what’s in store this spring!<br />
&nbsp;</p>

15 gardening tips for April

<p><strong>Hydrangeas are easy to grow,&nbsp;</strong>just follow our simple tips.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Hydrangeas are back in style, and there’s a fantastic range to choose from. There’s one to suit every garden, from the classic pink and blue mopheads to paniculate hydrangeas with huge conical flowerheads. Hydrangeas flower for ages in late summer, they grow well in the shade, and their flowerheads keep on looking good even once they’ve dried.&nbsp;<strong>Hydrangeas are easy to grow</strong> too – just follow our simple tips.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Hydrangea types</h2>
<p>To get the best out of your hydrangea, it’s essential to know what type of hydrangea you have. Here are the most common types:</p>
<ul>
<li>
<p><strong>Hydrangea macrophylla</strong> – these are the traditional mophead and lacecap hydrangeas, with pink, blue or white flowers. One of the most striking features of the pink and blue hydrangeas is that the flower colour changes depending on whether they are grown in acidic or alkaline soils. (Acidic soils produce blue flowers, and alkaline soils produce pink.) Mopheads have rounded flower heads made up of large florets. Lacecaps have flatter flowerheads with an inner centre of tiny florets surrounded by a ring of larger ones.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Hydrangea arborescens</strong> have huge domed flowerheads with a more delicate appearance than the traditional mopheads. Hydrangea’ Annabelle’ is one of the most popular Hydrangea arborescens cultivars with its enormous white flowerheads.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata</strong> produces large conical flower heads that often change colour as they mature.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Hydrangea quercifolia</strong> (oak-leaved hydrangea) has large lobed leaves very similar in shape to oak leaves. In autumn, the leaves turn dramatic shades of orange and red before falling.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Hydrangea anomala (climbing hydrangea)</strong> is a self-clinging climber with white lace-cap flowers in summer.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<h2>Where to grow hydrangeas</h2>
<p>Hydrangeas do best in moist, well-drained soil in light shade. Dig in plenty of organic matter like garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure before planting to help your soil retain moisture and water regularly in dry periods. There’s usually no need to feed hydrangeas, but you should mulch in spring with leaf mould, compost or manure.</p>
<h2>How to prune hydrangeas</h2>
<p>Pruning hydrangeas doesn’t have to be complicated. Here’s how it’s done.</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Mophead and lacecap hydrangeas</strong>: leave the faded flower heads on the plant over winter and prune in late spring, cutting back to a pair of solid buds below the old flower heads. Remove any dead or crossing branches. To encourage new shoots on mature plants, cut one or two old stems back to ground level.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Hydrangea paniculata and Hydrangea arborescens</strong>: Prune in early spring, removing dead wood or crossing branches. Cut the previous year’s stems by one third, cutting above a pair of strong buds.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Climbing hydrangeas</strong>: There’s no need to prune climbing hydrangeas for the first few years while they are getting going. Prune mature plants annually after flowering to keep them to size, shortening any very long shoots to healthy buds lower down.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Our centre has a great range of hydrangeas and other shrubs, so visit us soon in %locations% to pick your favourite!</p>

How to grow hydrangeas

<p>These <strong>five plants for a low-maintenance border</strong> are some of the best plants to grow when you don’t have much time to look after them.</p>

<p>These <strong>five plants for a low-maintenance border</strong> are some of the best plants to grow when you don’t have much time to look after them. All plants in a cultivated garden will need some maintenance, but these will keep that to a minimum while ensuring your garden looks pretty and great for pollinators. Make sure you know if your border is in full sun, part sun/part shade or shade before you get planting. These five plants are all for a sunny border, although most will also grow well in part sun.</p>
<h2>Best plants for a low maintenance border</h2>
<ol>
<li><strong>Geranium’ Rozanne’</strong><br />
This hardy geranium was the winner of the RHS Plant of the Centenary at Chelsea Flower Show in 2013. The pretty blueish flowers stand out from the spreading foliage, as it grows fast to fill borders as perfect ground cover. Hardy Geraniums flower for an extended period from summer into autumn and can bring some fun to a low maintenance border.</li>
<li><strong>Geum’ Totally Tangerine’</strong><br />
The cheerful orange flowers of this Geum flower bloom from early summer to early autumn in full sun and well-drained soil. Keep deadheading the flowers and see how they look lovely together with any other plant with lilac/blue flowers. Geums grow well at the front of borders.</li>
<li><strong>Hebe ‘Heartbreaker’</strong><br />
An evergreen shrub with colour all year. The green leaves are creamy edged and turn to a bright pink colour from lower temperatures in autumn all the way until spring. You will also enjoy the purplish flowers in the summertime, so it really is a great plant.</li>
<li><strong>Buddleja’ Pink Delight’</strong><br />
Forget the lilac Buddleja! This bright and beautiful pink Buddleja is fast-growing and flowers profusely all summer. Butterflies will be attracted to it, as will bees. It’s fully hardy and an excellent plant for a pollinator and low maintenance border. The flowers even have a sweet, honey scent, and it needs very little care, just a hard prune in spring.</li>
<li><strong>Choisya ‘Goldfingers’</strong><br />
Choisya, also known as Mexican orange blossom, is a bushy shrub that has colourful interests all year. The fragrance also uplifts you throughout spring and early summer, from green to yellow flowers and small white flowers, ideally planted where you will walk by or by a seated area to enjoy the cheerful shrub with scent. Preferring a fertile, well-drained soil, Choisya is a fully hardy plant that will shine all year.</li>
</ol>
<p>We have many plants perfect for a low-maintenance border with assistants to help you choose. Visit our garden centre in %locations%.<br />
&nbsp;</p>

Five plants for a low maintenance border

<p>This <strong>how-to refresh compost in pots</strong> will ensure your container plants thrive all year round.</p>

<p>This <strong>how-to refresh compost in pots</strong> will ensure your container plants thrive all year round. Most container-grown plants, trees and shrubs will need some new compost each year or two to improve the compost structure in the pot, increase much-needed nutrients and ensure your plants can grow for many years in pots. It is easily done and gives your plants an enormous health boost. Here’s how to refresh compost in pots.</p>
<h2>Tools you will need to refresh compost in pots&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Make sure you are well prepared to start working on your pots and have everything you need by your side, so once you get to work, everything is convenient and easy to do. You’ll need a</p>
<ul>
<li>a hand fork,</li>
<li>some fresh compost,</li>
<li>gardening gloves.</li>
</ul>
<p>Don’t forget a watering can and pebbles for the top of the pot if required.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Types of composts</h2>
<p>You can use numerous types of compost, but we recommend using good quality multi-purpose, peat-free compost after you have refreshed the pot with the new compost.</p>
<h2>How to refresh compost in pots</h2>
<p>Just begin to loosen the compost in the pot from the surface roots and the edges of the pots with your hand fork. If you can also remove compost gently from around the root ball, that’s a good idea so much of the old compost is removed and can be replenished. Then replenish the pot with your multi-purpose compost and from down as you add it around the root ball. Please make sure there are no air pockets around the roots and water it well. If you’d like to add pebbles or gravel, spread a layer on top. It can be helpful to stop weed growth and retain moisture.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Refresh compost in pots and keep up the care&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Mainly, container plants will need more watering than plants growing in the ground because they will dry out quicker. Always check how much moisture is under the top few centimetres of compost and ensure the container is well watered. Feed will be necessary from spring throughout summer as the container plants will soon absorb the compost nutrients. Over winter, lifting pots onto pot feet can also help with drainage.&nbsp;</p>
<p>For compost, tools, containers and plants for pots, visit us in store and get your garden thriving.&nbsp;</p>

Refresh compost in pots

<p>We’ve put together our <strong>top tips on sowing seeds</strong> and&nbsp;suggestions on <strong>planting the best seeds&nbsp;in March</strong>.</p>

<p>Growing flowers from seed is a fantastic way to fill your garden with colour at minimal costs. Now that spring has arrived, there are plenty of flower seeds to sow both indoors and directly outside to give you beds filled with blooms this summer. We’ve put together our <strong>top tips on sowing seeds</strong> and&nbsp;suggestions on <strong>planting the best seeds&nbsp;in March</strong>.</p>
<h2>Tips on sowing seeds</h2>
<ul>
<li>If it’s been a very cold, wet spring, wait until the weather improves to sow outdoors, or start your seeds off indoors. As a rule of thumb, if the weeds are starting to grow, it’s probably warm enough to sow hardy annuals outside.</li>
<li>Before sowing seeds outdoors, it’s important to prepare the ground. Dig over the soil, remove weeds and stones and rake the surface to produce a fine, crumbly texture ready for sowing.</li>
<li>Getting the watering right is one of the most important aspects of growing plants from seed. Seeds sown outdoors need regular watering in dry periods. For seeds sown indoors, keep the compost moist, but remember that seeds don’t enjoy sitting in sodden compost.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Seeds to sow indoors in March</h2>
<p>Many half-hardy and tender plants can be sown indoors now and will give you a fantastic display of colour in summer. Here are some seeds to sow indoors in March:</p>
<ul>
<li>Half-hardy annuals like cosmos, cleome, antirrhinum (snapdragons), French marigolds and calendula (pot marigolds).</li>
<li>Dahlia mixes - many are available as seeds and can be sown indoors now, giving a fabulous display in summer for very little cost.</li>
<li>Climbing annuals like Thunbergia alata (Black-eyed Susan), Ipomoea lobata (Spanish Flag) and Ipomoea purpurea (Morning Glory) – these can be planted out as soon as the frosts are over and will quickly cover an obelisk, arch or pergola with their colourful flowers.</li>
<li>In cold areas, sow sweet peas indoors in root trainers – toilet roll inner tubes work well, giving the long roots space to develop.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Seeds to sow outdoors in March</h2>
<p>As the weather improves and the soil warms up towards the end of the month, many hardy plants can be sown directly outdoors. Here are a few to try:</p>
<ul>
<li>Hardy annuals, including Californian poppies, cornflowers, Nigella (love-in-a-mist) and sunflowers. March is also an excellent time to sow annual wildflower mixes.</li>
<li>You can sow sweet peas directly outdoors this month in mild areas, provided there’s no risk of frost.</li>
<li>Nasturtiums are a great addition to any kitchen garden and can be sown outdoors from late March.</li>
<li>If the weather is good, try sowing some night-scented stocks (Matthiola bicornis) in a sunny spot near a seating area to enjoy the delicious fragrance on long summer evenings.</li>
</ul>
<p>We have everything you need to start sowing, including pots, seed trays, compost and a fantastic range of seeds. Visit us today and get your flower garden started!</p>

Flower seeds to sow in March

<h2><strong>Choosing the right potato for you</strong></h2>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p>With over 30&nbsp;potato varieties in our range, choosing which Seed Potatoes to plant can be a bit daunting! So here is a short guide to help choose which varieties to grow:</p>

<p>Harvesting Time&nbsp;&ndash; You might notice that our different seed potato packs are colour coded; blue for &ldquo;First Earlies&rdquo;, orange for &ldquo;Second Earlies&rdquo; and green for &ldquo;Maincrop&rdquo;. First and Second Earlies will give you &ldquo;new potatoes&rdquo; in the summer, Maincrops will give you tubers for eating in the autumn and enough to store over winter for later use. First Earlies will typically be ready for harvesting in June/July, Second Earlies in July/August and Main Crops from August onward but if storing then can be harvested in September or October.</p>

<p><img alt="" height="166" loading="lazy" sizes="(max-width: 300px) 100vw, 300px" src="http://taylors-bulbs.com/taylorsBulbs/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Taylors-Bulbs-Carripacks-300x166.jpg" srcset="https://taylors-bulbs.com/taylorsBulbs/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Taylors-Bulbs-Carripacks-300x166.jpg 300w, https://taylors-bulbs.com/taylorsBulbs/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Taylors-Bulbs-Carripacks-768x426.jpg 768w, https://taylors-bulbs.com/taylorsBulbs/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Taylors-Bulbs-Carripacks-1024x567.jpg 1024w, https://taylors-bulbs.com/taylorsBulbs/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Taylors-Bulbs-Carripacks.jpg 1200w" width="300" /></p>

<p>Container Growing&nbsp;&ndash; Early varieties are best suited to container growing; a particular favourite is Carlingford &ndash; a second early variety and a good all-rounder (good for salads, boiling, baking mashing etc). Why not try our Potato Growing Bags.</p>

<p>Potatoes for Purpose&nbsp;&ndash; Different potatoes have different properties; some are particularly good for boiling, some for chips, some for roasting. Here are just a few recommendations from varieties in the Taylors range:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Duke of York &ndash; First Early, great for boiling</li>
	<li>Sharpe&rsquo;s Express &ndash; First Early, a good all rounder for cooking with a distinctive flavour</li>
	<li>Charlotte &ndash; Second Early, great for salads with great flavour. One of our most popular varieties.</li>
	<li>Maris Peer &ndash; Second Early, a flavoursome salad variety</li>
	<li>Maris Piper &ndash; Main Crop, chip shop favourite! Great for chips and roasting</li>
</ul>

Now is the time to plant seed potatoes

<p>There are so many <strong>half-hardy annuals</strong> to choose from. Every garden should have some half-hardy annuals and be full of blooms.</p>

<p>When <strong>growing half-hardy annuals,</strong> you can enjoy flowers through to the first frosts. They make lovely cut flowers and are great to fill spaces around the garden. Half-hardy annuals don’t like the cold and can often look quite exotic. They are some of the easiest flowers to grow in the beds in the garden, containers and even hanging baskets. There are so many to choose from. Every garden should have some half-hardy annuals and be full of blooms.</p>
<h2>What is a half-hardy annual?</h2>
<p>Firstly knowing what a half-hardy annual is will be essential. Half-hardy annuals can tolerate some light frosts,, which means they grow a little longer than annuals which won’t tolerate any frost. It is as simple as that!</p>
<h2>How to sow half-hardy annuals?</h2>
<p>Sow seeds during spring, either into a heated propagator or wait until all frosts have passed and sow direct into the soil,, which is likely to be April or May. The seeds need warmer weather to germinate and thrive, so the temperature is essential. Prick out your seedlings and pot on to give them more space to grow. If you grow seeds under cover, make sure you harden them off before transplanting them outside where they will grow. If you direct sow, you might also need to thin them out.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Growing half-hardy annuals for cutting and propagating&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Planting the hardened off young plants around existing shrubs and perennials is a great way to fill gaps. Many half-hardy annuals produce beautiful cut flowers for the vase or as gifts for friends. Many will grow even more when you cut them, which is a bonus! They are also really easy to propagate by collecting seeds. Many will even self-seed and pop up again the following year if there has been a mild winter.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Recommended seeds for growing half-hardy annuals&nbsp;</h2>
<p>There are so many to choose from with different colours, shapes, textures, heights and uses. Some are edible, medicinal and great for pollinators&nbsp;too, so there are many benefits to growing them. Here are some of our favourites:</p>
<ul>
<li>Cosmos ‘Cupcakes’ and ‘Sensation Mix’,</li>
<li>Tagetes ‘Lemon Gem’,</li>
<li>Zinnia ‘Queen Lime’,</li>
<li>Nasturtium ‘Princess of India’ and ‘Peach Melba’,</li>
<li>Cleome ‘Firework Mix’,</li>
<li>Sunflower ‘Titan’ and ‘Ruby Sunset’,</li>
<li>Statice ‘Compindi Blue’.</li>
</ul>
<p>There are many more, and each is a personal choice and what you would love to see growing in your garden.&nbsp;</p>
<p>We have lots of seeds for you to choose from in store, so visit us and start sowing your half-hardy annuals.&nbsp;</p>

Growing half-hardy annuals

<p>Here&rsquo;s <strong>what to sow and grow in your kitchen garden in March</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Whether your <strong>kitchen garden</strong> is an allotment, a bed or just a few pots on your windowsill, March is a busy time for veg growers! As spring arrives and the days get lighter, now&rsquo;s the perfect time to start sowing seeds and planting crops, ready for a great harvest in the months ahead. Here&rsquo;s <strong>what to sow and grow in your kitchen garden in March</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Vegetables to sow indoors in March</h2>

<p>Tender crops that need a long growing season should be sown indoors now so that they are big enough to take full advantage of the summer sunshine when it arrives. A greenhouse is ideal for these crops, but you can also sow them in a heated propagator or pots on a sunny windowsill. Fast-growing crops like lettuce can be sown and grown indoors this month to keep you supplied with fresh salad leaves. Sow these crops indoors now:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Tomatoes</li>
	<li>Sweet peppers</li>
	<li>Cucumbers</li>
	<li>Lettuce</li>
	<li>Celery</li>
	<li>Aubergines</li>
</ul>

<h2>Vegetables to sow outdoors in March</h2>

<p>Several hardy crops can be sown directly outdoors in March, especially in milder areas of the country. It&rsquo;s good to warm the soil before sowing by covering it with black plastic sheeting for a few weeks or putting cloches down over the areas where seeds will be sown. Sow these crops outdoors now:</p>

<ul>
	<li>Broad beans</li>
	<li>Spinach</li>
	<li>Carrots</li>
	<li>Parsnips</li>
	<li>Beetroot</li>
	<li>Peas</li>
	<li>Onions&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Radish</li>
	<li>Leeks</li>
	<li>Chard</li>
</ul>

<h2>Vegetables to plant outdoors in March</h2>

<p>Shallot and onion sets and garlic cloves can be planted outdoors in March. Towards the end of the month, you can also plant first early potatoes &ndash; don&rsquo;t forget to &lsquo;chit&rsquo; them first by leaving them for a few weeks in a bright, frost-free spot to produce shoots.</p>

<h2>Companion plants for kitchen gardens</h2>

<p>It&rsquo;s always good to include some flowering plants in your kitchen garden. As well as adding colour, they&rsquo;ll attract pollinating insects, and some can even help protect your plants from pests. Here are a few to sow this month:</p>

<ul>
	<li>French marigolds (Tagetes patula). This is one of the traditional companion plants for tomatoes. The flowers are very popular with bees and other pollinators, and their scent helps deter blackfly.</li>
	<li>Poached egg plant (Limnanthes douglasii). This easy annual with its striking yellow and white flowers is big fun for children to grow, and it&rsquo;s a favourite for pollinators.</li>
	<li>Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus). As well as having vibrant flowers that look great around the edges of a bed, these trailing plants will act as a sacrificial plant, attracting aphids away from your vegetables. Infested plants can be pulled up and disposed of.</li>
</ul>

<p>Our centre has a fantastic range of vegetable and herb seeds and seedlings, so visit us today and get your kitchen garden off to a sensational start this year!</p>

What to plant in the kitchen garden in March

<p>Now <strong>it’s time to fertilise garden plants</strong>. You might be wondering why plants need extra nutrition, which fertiliser to use and how to apply it to your plants.</p>

<p>Now <strong>it’s time to fertilise garden plants</strong>. You&nbsp;might be wondering why plants need extra nutrition, which fertiliser to use and how to apply it to your plants. How and when you use fertilisers will impact your plants, so it’s good to know the best way to use them. Fertilisers help plant growth through various stages, from budding to flowers and fruit production. Plants use a lot of nutrients from the soil and need a great deal of energy for strong roots and leaves for photosynthesising. Applying fertilisers can help ensure your plants have everything they need to thrive.</p>
<h2>When to know it’s time to fertilise garden plants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Firstly, fertiliser isn’t used to keep plants alive. It’s used as a growing aid and to help them flourish.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>
<p>If you have mulched your beds and borders and looked after your soil, you may not need any fertiliser because allowing plants to grow naturally in good soil is always the best way.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>In certain circumstances, it will be needed, such as if you are growing in pots and containers, which will need to be fertilised throughout the growing season.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>The right time to start fertilising plants is as they begin to actively grow in springtime and throughout summer, but not as they go into the end of their growing season.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Trees and shrubs are mainly only fertilised once a year in early spring but often not necessary. Mainly, fertilisers are used for fruit, vegetables and bedding plants.</p>
</li>
</ul>
<h2>What fertilisers to use</h2>
<p>There are many fertilisers to use from organic garden compost, well-rotted manure, mushroom compost and seaweed, which will all feed the soil.</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Synthetic fertilisers have a higher concentration of nutrients and are available as pellets, granules, powders and liquids.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Controlled release fertilisers are granules coated with a porous material that allows water to get in and the fertiliser to release into the soil.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Slow-release fertilisers degrade slowly and are often organic.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>There are many different liquid fertilisers to choose from, including seaweed and plant-based, which you mix with water to apply. Or you can make your own from comfrey or nettle foliage in a bucket of water and then use diluted.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to apply&nbsp;fertilisers</h2>
<p>It depends on the type of fertiliser you are using, so it is essential to read the instructions on the fertiliser you have chosen. Some will need diluting. Some will be applied directly or mixed in the soil. Never overuse, and always make sure your fertiliser is safe for wildlife, pets and children.&nbsp;</p>
<p>We have a range of fertilisers in store and assistants to help you choose. Visit our centre in %locations%.</p>

It’s time to fertilise garden plants

<p>Here are our <strong>top 9 summer bulbs to buy and plant now</strong>.</p>

<p>Summer-flowering bulbs are fantastic for adding colour and interest to your garden. There are bulbs for every situation, whether sun or shade, big gardens or small, so you’re sure to find one to suit you. Here are our <strong>top 9 summer bulbs to buy and plant now</strong>.</p>
<h2>Favourite summer-flowering bulbs for this summer</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Gladioli</strong>:&nbsp;Gladioli produce tall spires of exotic-looking flowers in fabulous colours and can be planted outdoors in spring in any sunny spot with well-drained soil. They add a welcome vertical accent to planting and look great as cut flowers.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Oriental lilies</strong>: With their enormous star-shaped flowers, rich colours and intense fragrance, Oriental lilies make a big impact in the garden. Plant them indoors in pots in spring, and move them outdoors when the frosts are over. They make fantastic cut flowers.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Begonias</strong>:&nbsp;Begonias are among the most popular summer bulbs (although strictly speaking, they grow from tubers, not bulbs!) They’ll grow happily in shady spots, brightening up pots and hanging baskets with their vivid flowers for months in summer and autumn. Start them indoors in early spring and plant out in summer.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Dahlias</strong>:&nbsp;Like begonias, dahlias are actually tubers, not bulbs. They come in an incredible range of flower sizes, styles and colours, and they flower from midsummer right up to the first frosts. Dahlias love the sun and fertile soil and make fantastic cut flowers. Start them indoors in early spring and plant out in summer.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Allium</strong>:&nbsp;With their round purple flowerheads, Alliums make a remarkable statement on any sunny border, and there’s a wide range to choose from, from huge Allium giganteum to compact Allium schoenoprasum (chives) small enough for a patio pot. Plan them outdoors in spring, in well-drained soil in full sun or part shade.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Freesia</strong>:&nbsp;Freesias are prized for their exotic-looking colourful flowers and intense fragrance. Compact enough for a patio pot, they also make excellent cut flowers. In mild areas, the bulbs can be planted outdoors in autumn or mid-spring, in well-drained soil in full sun.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Canna lilies</strong>: Canna lilies add a fabulous tropical feel to any garden with bold foliage and vibrant flowers. They need rich, moisture-retentive soil in a sunny spot, with plenty of water in dry periods. Deadhead regularly to encourage more blooms and lift or mulch in autumn.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Agapanthus</strong>:&nbsp;Sky-blue, moody purple, or gleaming white, Agapanthus flowers stand out in summer, with their round flower heads on tall stems. They love well-drained soil, and plenty of sun, and the flowerheads look good even after they’ve faded.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Sparaxis</strong>:&nbsp;With their colourful star-shaped flowers bobbing on slender stems, Sparaxis (harlequin flowers) look delightful in containers or at the front of a border. Plant the bulbs in pots in a greenhouse in spring and move them outside after the frosts are over.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Want to brighten up your borders this summer? Visit us today and choose from our fantastic range of summer-flowering bulbs.</p>

Top 9 summer bulbs to buy now

<p>Discover everything about <strong>garden therapy</strong>.&nbsp;The latest research shows that spending even a little time in your garden is good for your mental health.</p>

<p>Discover everything about <strong>garden therapy</strong>. Have you ever looked out the window at a tree in leaf and felt your stress levels drop? Or gone for a walk in the park at lunchtime and come back to your desk feeling recharged and ready for the fray? Instinctively, we know that being outdoors and reconnecting with nature is good for us. And you don&rsquo;t have to go far to get your green fix. The latest research shows that spending even a little time in your garden is good for your mental health.</p>

<h2>How gardening can help your mood</h2>

<p>It&rsquo;s not really surprising that gardening is good for your health. After all, it&rsquo;s a physical job, and all that digging and weeding produces endorphins &ndash; hormones that reduce the effects of depression and anxiety. In fact, contact with a specific soil bacteria, Mycobacterium vaccae, triggers the release of serotonin, a natural anti-depressant, in the brain. An excellent reason for getting your hands dirty! Then there&rsquo;s the satisfaction of achieving something visible. With our lives moving increasingly online, the sight of a newly-mown lawn or a neatly weeded flower bed is a good way to remind yourself that you can still make an impact in the real world.</p>

<h2>Growing your own food</h2>

<p>Picking and eating your own home-grown food, even if it&rsquo;s just a few herbs in a pot or some salad leaves, connects you with the seasons and the elements in a way that buying plastic-wrapped blueberries from the other side of the world can never do. If you&rsquo;re new to gardening, start with something easy, and remember to grow things that you will actually want to eat!&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Easy fruit and veg to grow include:</strong></p>

<ul>
	<li>Potatoes</li>
	<li>Runner beans</li>
	<li>Radishes</li>
	<li>Salad leaves</li>
	<li>Courgettes</li>
	<li>Dwarf bush tomatoes (no need to stake them!)</li>
	<li>Strawberries</li>
</ul>

<h2>How to start gardening&nbsp;</h2>

<p>So what&rsquo;s the best way to get into gardening? Start small. Don&rsquo;t leap out into your garden and start moving mature shrubs &ndash; you&rsquo;re likely to damage both yourself and the plants. Set yourself small goals. Do an hour&rsquo;s weeding, then reward yourself with a cup of tea. Spend time just sitting in your garden, getting to know it and planning how you want it to look. And while you&rsquo;re planning, plant something in a pot to give you something that you can watch grow.</p>

<p>If you don&rsquo;t have a garden but want somewhere to get your hands dirty, plenty of public and community gardens are looking for volunteers. A quick online search will show you what&rsquo;s available in your area. Gardening is something everyone can enjoy, so grab your secateurs and give it a go!</p>

<p>If you&rsquo;d like to get more out of your garden, why not visit our centre for some inspiration? Our friendly staff are always happy to advise on all your gardening questions.</p>

Garden therapy

<p><strong>Making a hedgehog home</strong> is fun and getting it right is essential for the safety of your garden friends.&nbsp;</p>

<p>If you’re wondering <strong>how to make a hedgehog house</strong>, we’ve put together some tips to help you build a safe space for hedgehogs to come into your garden. It is always a joy to see a hedgehog rustling about at night in a garden. A most welcome visitor is a friend of the gardener. Not only will hedgehogs eat slugs and caterpillars, but they need your help. Hedgehog numbers have declined from 1.5 million in 1995 to less than 500 000. They are now in need of help in both urban and rural areas. Making a hedgehog home is fun and getting it right is essential for the safety of your garden friends.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>What you need to make a hedgehog house</h2>
<p>Ensure you have the right tools and equipment to build a safe and warm home.</p>
<ul>
<li>You’ll need a hammer, nails, metal hinges, untreated FSC plywood birch boards, and polythene sheeting.</li>
<li>You’ll also need a pile of dry leaves and a shady spot in your garden.</li>
<li>Don’t forget hedgehogs need access to your garden, so make sure there is a hole in the fence, an open gate or other boundary access.</li>
</ul>
<h2>How to build a&nbsp;hedgehog house yourself&nbsp;</h2>
<ol>
<li>Cut the wood, so you have three sides, a lid, base, a small tunnel and a front with a gap for the tunnel to be attached to.</li>
<li>Make the tunnel, secure the sides together and to the base, then attach two hinges and the lid. The tunnel should be big enough for the hedgehog but small enough to keep predators out.</li>
<li>If you want to add feet and raise it off the ground, that can be helpful, and the tunnel should then be attached with a rise so it is sloped.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<h2>Where to put a hedgehog house</h2>
<p>Hedgehog homes should be placed in a shady and sheltered place in the garden. When you know it is installed safely, put some dry leaves in via the lid and cover it with some polythene sheeting. You can also mound up leaves over the top as well. Make sure you can access it in spring to clean it out but don’t touch it if a hedgehog has made it home.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Other options if you don’t want to make a hedgehog house yourself</h2>
<p>There are different ways to have a hedgehog home, from purchasing a ready-made home from a reputable source, building a pre-cut and boxed home or simply piling up lots of leaves and log piles.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Visit us in the store for advice when building your hedgehog home.&nbsp;</p>

How to make a hedgehog house

<p>Here are our <strong>top 10 tips on growing your own cutting garden</strong>.</p>

<p>Fresh flowers fill a house with life and colour, and there’s nothing better than picking your own. Grow your own cutting garden, and you can have fresh flowers on your doorstep whenever you want them. Here are our <strong>top 10 tips on growing your own cutting garden</strong>.</p>
<h2>Top 10 tips on growing your own cutting garden</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Site your cutting garden in a sunny spot with fertile, well-drained soil and protection from strong winds. Dig some compost or organic matter into the soil before planting, and provide stakes for tall plants.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>For ease of maintenance and picking, plant in rows, keeping blocks of the same plant together. Plant as densely as possible (while still allowing each plant space to grow) so that you make the best use of your space. Close planting also shades out weeds, meaning less maintenance.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Flowers with long stems, such as cornflowers, dahlias and lilies, are the most useful for flower arrangements, so make sure your cutting garden includes plenty of these.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Flowers that re-bloom after cutting, such as shasta daisies, cosmos and repeat-flowering roses, are ideal for cutting gardens, as you get so much more from each plant.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you only have a small space for a cutting garden, pick a colour scheme and choose plants that will work with this colour scheme. That way, your arrangements will always look good together, no matter what’s in bloom.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Choose flowers with different shapes to add interest to your arrangements, such as ball dahlias with round flowerheads or upright gladioli with spearlike flower spires.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Don’t forget to plant a few fillers to add softness to bouquets and vases. Gypsophila, Ammi majus (Bishop’s flower), and asters make excellent filler plants.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Foliage is just as important as flowers in a stylish arrangement, providing a foil for the beautiful blooms. Some of the best foliage plants for a cutting garden include Artemisia (wormwood), Bupleurum (hare’s ear), Euphorbia, Alchemilla (lady’s mantle), sage and lavender.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>As well as cutting flowers, one of the most critical maintenance tasks in a cutting garden is regular deadheading. This prevents the plants from setting seeds and keeps them producing more flowers for an extended period.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Annuals (plants that live for just one year and die after they’ve finished flowering) are great for cutting gardens, as many flower for an extended period. They can be grown from seed, which means you get a lot of plants for the price of a seed packet. Annuals will need to be resown every year, but that gives you the chance to experiment with different plants! Some of the best annuals for cutting gardens include Nigella (love-in-the-mist), cosmos, cornflowers, scabious, sunflowers and sweet peas.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>We have a fantastic range of seeds and plants for cutting gardens in our centre, so visit us today and get your garden started!</p>

10 tips on growing your own cutting garden

<p>The new range of <strong>Kinder&nbsp;</strong>young plants is in stock, which includes, as well as plug plants, collections of colour themed plants, 20 plug value packs.&nbsp;<strong>Kinder</strong>&nbsp;Plants are an&nbsp;ideal way to make a start with your Summer bedding plants before the weather is mild enough to put the plants outside. They offer great value for money. You don&rsquo;t have to have a greenhouse or conservatory, a windowsill will do.</p>

<p>When you get your plants home if you are not ready to pot them up, put them in a light frost free position but if this is a windowsill turn the plants once a day to avoid them growing to one side and if the nights are very cold bring them away from the window at night. Make sure your plants are moist but not wet.</p>

<p>When you are ready to pot them on choose a good compost such as&nbsp;<strong>Westland John Innes No.2 Potting-on Compost&nbsp;</strong>and small pots.&nbsp;Push the little plant out of the sleeve rom the bottom and&nbsp;gently&nbsp;plant it&nbsp;into it&rsquo;s new home.&nbsp; When you have re-potted all your plants you should water them in, this should be sufficient until the plants have rooted to the edge of the new pot unless the surface of the compost is getting dry. Protect your plants from cold or frosty weather and do not put them outside until all danger of frost has passed. Indoors they will do best if kept between 16-18C and turned regularly to avoid them being stretched.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Once established you can begin to water and feed your plants regularly, once a week to begin with then more often as the season progresses. An ideal feed at this stage is&nbsp;<strong>Miracle-Gro All Purpose</strong>.</p>

<p><img alt="" height="563" src="https://www.swarkestonenursery.co.uk/files/images/thumbnail_20220306_201201.jpg" style="width: 720px; height: 563px;" width="720" /></p>

Plug plants are now in stock

<p>These <strong>top 6&nbsp;summer flower bulbs to grow</strong> will brighten up any garden.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 6&nbsp;summer flower bulbs to grow</strong> will brighten up any garden. You&rsquo;ll have a colourful flowering garden for summer, from pots and containers to beds and borders. Bulbs are easy to plant and grow and will help you grow not just a colourful garden but also a wildlife-friendly garden. There are many bulbs that will attract pollinators to any size space.</p>

<h2>When to plant summer-flowering bulbs?</h2>

<p>Summer bulbs need warm weather and warm soil to establish and grow a root system. The ideal soil temperature needs to be&nbsp;around 13&deg;C degrees. Summer flowering bulbs are usually planted in springtime, from March to May, so you still have plenty of time to get yours.&nbsp;Don&rsquo;t try to plant summer bulbs earlier&nbsp;to avoid them from not growing or root rot.&nbsp;An easy rule to remember is if it&rsquo;s time for your tomatoes to go outdoors, it is also time to plant summer bulbs.</p>

<h2>Top-6&nbsp;summer-flowering bulbs</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Gladioli&nbsp;</strong><br />
	From bright, colourful blousy blooms to the more delicate variety, there are many Gladioli to choose from. The tall stems may need support, but they bring such colourful flower spikes to any garden and also make excellent cut flowers.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Liatris</strong><br />
	The tall spikes look like blazing stars and bloom for an extended period in the summertime. They are excellent as cut flowers, and they attract pollinators, so expect plenty of bees buzzing around and butterflies visiting your garden.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Calla Lily&nbsp;</strong><br />
	The smooth foliage and elegant blooms bring some class into the garden. There are many colours from classic and calming white to vibrant pink, orange and dark purple.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Canna Lily&nbsp;</strong><br />
	These are tall, tropical-looking plants with green or dark foliage and bright orange, yellow or red flowers. If you want an exotic look, these are the plants to include in your garden.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Allium&nbsp;</strong><br />
	The ball-shaped flower heads are mainly made up of tiny star-shaped flowers. There are various shades of lilac, some green and even white. They bring charm and fun to a garden, plus they grow well in pots. Pollinators love them.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Crocosmia&nbsp;</strong><br />
	An easy plant to grow that flowers for a long time throughout the summer. Crocosmia has fiery coloured flowers in yellow, red and orange. The flowers arch on the end of the stem and look slightly similar to Freesia flowers. Stunning as cut flowers.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>We have many flowering bulbs for you to choose from when you visit us in the store.&nbsp;</p>

Top 6 summer flower bulbs to grow

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for March</strong>.</p>

<p>With the days getting longer and flowers appearing everywhere you look, spring’s definitely arrived! As the garden starts growing again, there’s plenty to do to get it looking good this spring. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for March</strong>.</p>
<h2>15 March gardening tips</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>It’s time to plant first early potatoes. For the best results, ‘chit’ them first by leaving them in a cool, bright, frost-free place for a few weeks to produce shoots, then plant them in grow bags or vegetable beds. March is also the month to plant onion sets for a summer crop.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Towards the end of the month, sow hardy annuals like nigella, cornflowers and poppies for swathes of flowers in summer that will attract a host of pollinating insects.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow tomato and chilli pepper seeds indoors on a sunny windowsill or in a greenhouse.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Sow carrots, parsnips and radishes outside in well-prepared vegetable beds.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Start summer-flowering bulbs like dahlias, gladioli and lilies in pots indoors for planting out in a few months when the frosts are past.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut back shrubby dogwoods (Cornus alba, sanguinea and sericea) and willows (Salix) to around 15cm (6in) above ground level. This encourages them to produce fresh, brightly coloured stems that will look stunning in the garden next winter.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prune bush roses, removing all dead, damaged and crossing branches and shortening stems by a third. Prune climbing roses, too, if not already done in winter. On mophead hydrangeas, cut back last year’s floral stems to strong buds below the flowerheads. Cut back flowered fuchsia stems to one to two buds from the main branches.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Deadhead daffodils and other spring bulbs as they fade, but leave the foliage to die back – don’t tie or plait it as this stops the leaves from being able to make food for next year’s flowers.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Dig compost or well-rotted farmyard manure into vegetable beds to boost nutrient levels ready for the year’s crops.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Feed roses with a general-purpose fertiliser. Give ericaceous plants like camellias, rhododendrons and blueberries a special feed with ericaceous fertiliser.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Mulch fruit trees with compost or well-rotted farmyard manure, keeping the mulch clear of the trunks to avoid the risk of rotting.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Top-dress container-grown shrubs by removing the top 5cm of old compost and replacing it with fresh compost.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Lift and divide summer- and autumn-flowering perennials like daylilies, rudbeckia and agapanthus.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you need to move deciduous shrubs and trees, do it this month before they start growing again in spring.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Put in plant supports for tall perennials like asters, delphiniums and dahlias – it’s much easier to do it now while the plants are still small.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Whatever you need to get your garden into shape this spring, you’ll find it in our centre, so pay us a visit soon!</p>

15 gardening tips for March

<p>This <strong>succulent care guide</strong> will help to ensure your succulents thrive in your home.</p>

<p>This <strong>succulent care guide</strong> will help to ensure your succulents thrive in your home. There are so many succulents to choose from that every home should be with one - or more! Sometimes considered to be awkward to grow, this isn’t the case at all, and with a few essential tips, your succulents should thrive for many years, from Senecio to the well-known Aeonium, Sedum and Crassula. Succulents are some of the easiest plants to grow, being drought tolerant and easy to propagate.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Planting needs are top of our succulent care guide&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Choose a pot that has about a 1.5cm distance around the edge of the plant and make sure you use a special succulent mix - which can be a ‘cacti and succulent compost’ or a gritty blend of compost, so the succulent is planted in well-drained soil. It’s crucial for succulents not to sit on wet ground. Just as with any plant, leave some room at the top of the pot. Now is the time if you’d like to add some stones to cover the compost.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Succulent care guide sunlight requirements&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Here are a few sunlight requirements you should follow strictly. Succulents need sunlight and that’s key to them thriving.</p>
<ul>
<li>Make sure they are in at least 6 hours of sunshine per day - although this might vary slightly depending on the type, so always read the label that comes with your plant.</li>
<li>Make sure your new succulents aren’t placed in direct sunlight at first and gradually move them into the full sun as they establish.</li>
<li>It’s worth checking on your succulents as often as possible because if they are receiving sun on one side all of the time, they will grow towards the sun.</li>
<li>Turn or move the container, so all sides get the sun as much as possible. If your plants aren’t receiving enough sun, they will lean as well.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>Watering and care is important in a succulent care guide</h2>
<p>The biggest tip about watering is never to overwater. Succulents can easily be killed with kindness.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Make sure the soil has dried out about 1cm from the top before watering, then allow the water to drain out of the pot. Misting them isn’t helpful as that can cause mould. Other ways of watering are to place the pot with a drainage hole into a tray of pebbles and water so the roots can absorb what they need from beneath. Never water over the succulents. Constantly water into the soil.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Succulent care guide to help easy propagation&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Many succulents are very easy to propagate, so you can grow many more for free once you have some. Some can be multiplied by simply taking a leaf, allowing the cut to be callous and then planting them into some gritty compost. Others can have a stem snipped and will enable it to root in water or directly in gritty compost.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Get your succulents off to the best start and visit us in store to choose yours.&nbsp;</p>

Succulent care guide

<p>These six&nbsp;roses are full of gorgeous scents, and there is bound to be one you love, or perhaps them all.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 6&nbsp;roses for scent</strong> will ensure your garden is full of beautiful fragrances throughout the summer, plus plenty of stunning colours. There are many roses to choose from, and it is most definitely a personal choice. There are many options, from deciding which rose you would like to grow based on the type suitable for your garden to the sentimental value of a memory or even the name. These eight roses are full of gorgeous scents, and there is bound to be one you love, or perhaps them all.</p>

<h2>Roses for scent</h2>

<ol>
	<li><strong>Rosa &#39;Compassion&#39;</strong><br />
	This is a wonderfully fragrant climbing rose. With a vigorous growth rate and salmon pink flowers with a strong scent from June to the end of the Summer. A great climber to plant around the patio.</li>
	<li><strong>Rosa &lsquo;Scent from Heaven&#39;</strong><br />
	This climbing rose won Rose of the Year in 2017 and RHS Award of Garden Merit. It has large orange-salmon flowers with a good fragrance. You will be able to smell the scent from quite far away.</li>
	<li><strong>Rosa &lsquo;Joie de Vivre&#39;</strong><br />
	This bush rose has&nbsp;cream to pastel pink fully double flowers&nbsp;with a sweet scent when up close.&nbsp;It has previously won Rose of the Year in 2011. It can be grown in a container or in the ground.</li>
	<li><strong>Rosa &lsquo;Scentimental&#39;</strong><br />
	This bush&nbsp;rose has striking cream/pink striped double flowers with a strong scent. It is a real stunner! A must for any garden.</li>
	<li><strong>Rosa &lsquo;Albertine&rsquo;</strong><br />
	This is a well known rambling rose with a flush of large pale pink roses and some seriously thorny stems! The flowers change to a deeper pink with age, and the fragrance is stunning on this perfect as a boundary wall rose. The flowers are full and many throughout the summer.&nbsp;</li>
	<li><strong>Rosa &lsquo;Margaret Merril&rsquo;</strong><br />
	A highly scented bush white rose looks lovely as a cut flower in a vase. It can be grown in a container or as a hedge.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<p>We have many roses in store, pop into Swarkestone Nursery&nbsp;to choose yours.</p>

<p>Our expert team can advise in how to care for your roses.</p>

Top 6 roses for scent

<p>Fat balls are fun and easy to make at home, and here’s how it’s done.&nbsp;</p>

<p><strong>Fat balls</strong> are a favourite treat for many birds in winter. Packed with energy-rich fats and seeds, they give birds the extra resources they need to survive cold weather when other food is scarce. Fat balls are fun and easy to make at home, and here’s how it’s done.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>What you&nbsp;need to make fat balls for birds</h2>
<ul>
<li>String</li>
<li>A yoghurt pot or something similar, to use as a mould</li>
<li>Lard or suet</li>
<li>Porridge oats or seeds</li>
<li>Raisins, currants or sultanas (optional)</li>
<li>Grated cheese (optional)</li>
<li>Mealworms (optional)</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Tip</strong>: Don’t use cooking fats such as turkey fat to make your fat balls, as it doesn’t set as well as lard or suet does. It also tends to smear on birds’ feathers, making them less insulating and affecting birds’ ability to fly.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to make a fat ball bird feeder</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Pierce a hole in the base of the yoghurt pot.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Tie a knot at one end of the string and feed the other end up through the pot’s base so that you have a long length coming out of the top of the pot, which you can use to hang the finished fat ball from a tree branch. Seal over the hole and the knot with Sellotape to leak-proof the pot.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Add the seeds, grated cheese, raisins etc., to the pot so that it is filled to about 1cm below the rim of the pot.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Melt the lard or suet in a saucepan on a stove, then carefully pour it into the yoghurt pot to cover all the dry ingredients.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Place the pot in the fridge to set.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Once set, remove the fat ball from the yoghurt pot mould.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Use the string to hang the fat ball from a tree and wait for the birds to find it.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Tits, robins, sparrows, blackbirds, nuthatches and even woodpeckers will love these balls.</p>
<h2>Making fat balls with pinecones</h2>
<p>If you don’t have any yoghurt pots to hand or don’t want to use plastic, pinecones make a handy alternative base.</p>
<ol>
<li>Collect a few fallen pinecones and clean them of soil and leaves. Tie a length of string to the base of each pinecone.</li>
<li>Melt the lard in a saucepan on a stove, and mix in the oats, seeds and other dry ingredients.</li>
<li>Using a knife or spoon, spread the mixture onto the pinecone, pushing it between the scales.</li>
<li>Put the covered pinecones in a fridge to set.</li>
<li>Use the string to hang the pinecones from a tree branch.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>NB</strong>: Check your fat balls regularly and watch out for signs of mould in damp weather. If you see any mould, replace the ball with a fresh one.</p>
<p>Do you want to encourage more birds into your garden? We have a fantastic range of feeders, seed and other bird care products in the centre. Visit us soon to see what’s in store.</p>

How to make fat balls for birds

<p>It’s essential to <strong>ensure you have a pet-friendly garden</strong> to keep your family pets safe in your garden when there are many opportunities for a pet to encounter something unwittingly, knowing it could cause a problem for themselves.</p>

<p>It’s essential to <strong>ensure you have a pet-friendly garden</strong> to keep your family pets safe in your garden when there are many opportunities for a pet to encounter something unwittingly, knowing it could cause a problem for themselves. From garden security to pet-friendly plants, there are many things you can do to ensure their safety so you can enjoy the garden with all of the family, including your furry friends.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Boundary security is essential to ensure you have a pet-friendly garden&nbsp;</h2>
<p>This isn’t just limited to dogs, but any pet you have in the garden that could escape will need a safe and secure boundary. Here are some thoughts:&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>a tall fence for chickens,</li>
<li>no holes under fences for guinea pigs,</li>
<li>no gaps in hedging or gates for dogs, rabbits and any other pet you might have.</li>
<li>keep gates closed and locked,</li>
<li>check on your boundary frequently to ensure there is no damage that your pet might find and wander off through.</li>
</ul>
<p>Sometimes the thrill of something new is too exciting for them so that they will go off on an adventure!&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Ensure you have a pet-friendly garden by planting non-toxic plants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Planting choices are crucial if your pets ingest anything from the garden that might make them poorly or worse. The good news is that plenty of plants are perfectly safe and won’t cause your pet any harm at all if they decide to have a nibble. Dogs, for example, do like to have a chew, so to limit that, you could plant in containers and hanging baskets, so they are harder to reach, but if you do have beds and borders, always check the plants you are buying are safe if they do have a munch.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Never use chemicals to ensure you have a pet-friendly garden&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Apart from the negative environmental impact of using chemicals in your garden, if ingested by your pet, they could become seriously ill. Always opt for a natural, pet-friendly option if you use something in your gardens, such as lawn feed or pest control. It’s simply not worth the risk to the planet or your pets.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Ensure you have a pet-friendly garden for playtime&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Your garden is a place for everyone to enjoy, and it’s so much fun to see your pets enjoying it. From a shallow paddling pool for dogs to keep cool in the summer to non-thorny plants, your dog tries to find a ball that goes awry. Think about how your pet will use the garden and implement pet safe planting and security.&nbsp;</p>
<p>We love pets, so visit our store for pet-friendly products and plants, helping to keep them safe.&nbsp;</p>

Ensure you have a pet-friendly garden

<p>Get ready to start building and <strong>making your own homemade compost for your garden</strong>.</p>

<p>This <strong>how to build a compost bin guide</strong>&nbsp;will help you on your way to making your own homemade compost in any size space. There are numerous ways to build a compost bin from different materials and various sizes for different spaces. Choices will depend on what you may want to recycle, what you can get hold of, your budget and even style. So get ready to start building and making your own homemade compost for your garden.</p>
<h2>Recycled pallets are one way how to build a compost bin</h2>
<p>One of the most popular ways to build a compost bin is using pallets. It’s a cheap, fun and relatively simple way to create containers to make stored compost piles. If you have a delivery on a pallet, they can be re-used, or you can collect some from construction yards or even find them free to gather in online forums. There are a few different ways to build a pallet bin, from ones with open tops, lids, and wooden slats at the front, which can be removed for easy access. If you also want to keep rats out of the compost pile, you could surround the inside and bottom with chicken wire. So get your screws, drill and safety goggles ready to start building.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to build a compost bin with Dalek</h2>
<p>If you’ve seen the green or black Dalek&nbsp;shaped compost bins, they are a great way to make compost in any size space and easy to find. Particularly easy to build. Just&nbsp;situate them and secure the lid at the top and the access door at the front. There are alternatives to the Dalek&nbsp;shape so that you will find them in a square shape too.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to build a compost bin with a collapsable idea for small spaces&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Making compost doesn’t mean you need ample space. Try a collapsable bin if you have a balcony or patio and would like to make enough compost for your pots and containers. Easy to pop open, with a zip lid, fill with your compost and take from the bottom when it’s ready to be used.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Ready-made bins are the easiest way how to build a compost bin&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Pallet bins are perhaps the trickiest to make, but in comparison, ready-made bins mean you won’t need to do half of the DIY work putting them together. There are options for wooden or pallet made bins already measured to fit, which just need assembling plastic bins that slot together easily. So you will need some DIY skills, but they will come with instructions and shouldn’t involve as much as building your own pallet bins.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Using homemade compost is a great way to replenish your soil. For tools and other composting options, visit us in store and ask our friendly team for advice.&nbsp;</p>

How to build a compost bin

<p>Here are our <strong>top 7 trees for small gardens</strong>.</p>

<p>Every garden should have a tree. Trees add height and structure, create shade, and provide vital natural habitat for birds and other garden wildlife. Whether through spring flowers, autumn foliage, colourful berries or attractive bark, a tree can add months of interest to your garden. And you don’t need a big garden to have space for a tree. Here are our <strong>top 7 trees for small gardens</strong>.</p>
<h2>Discover seven&nbsp;trees for small gardens</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Acer palmatum ‘Sango-Kaku’ (Japanese maple)</strong> has an upright shape that works well in small gardens. New leaves emerge pink-flushed in spring, turning green in summer and golden yellow in autumn. The season of interest carries on into winter, with young stems showing their stunning coral pink colouring once the leaves have fallen. Height and spread: 4m x 2m in 20 years.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Cercis siliquastrum (Judas tree)</strong> is a slow-growing, relatively compact tree that flowers spectacularly in spring, producing abundant lilac-pink flowers on bare branches. Green heart-shaped leaves appear after the flowers, turning golden yellow in autumn. Height and spread: 4m x 4m in 20 years.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Sorbus koehneana (Chinese mountain ash)</strong> is an exceptionally pretty form of mountain ash, with pinnate foliage that creates a delicate feathery effect. Clusters of white flowers in spring are followed by drooping clusters of gleaming white berries on red stems, and the leaves turn a rich plum-purple in autumn. Height and spread: 3m x 3m in 10-20 years.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Crataegus persimilis ‘Prunifolia’</strong> is a variety of hawthorn that grows into a small tree rather than a shrub. It flowers in late spring, producing clusters of small white flowers that are followed by bright crimson berries in autumn. The autumn foliage colour is sensational, with leaves turning vivid copper, gold, and orange shades. This attractive small tree grows in almost all soil conditions and provides food for a wide range of wildlife. Height and spread: 5m x 4m in 20 years.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Malus ‘Evereste’ (crab apple)</strong> is ideal for small gardens, growing into a compact tree with masses of white flowers that open from red buds in spring. These are followed by orange-red fruits in autumn that look ornamental on the branches well into winter. Like all crab apples, it’s an excellent pollination partner for apple trees. Height and spread: 5m x 4m in 20 years.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Magnolia stellata (star magnolia)</strong> can be grown as a large shrub or a small tree. It flowers profusely in spring, with masses of starry white flowers covering the bare branches before the leaves appear. Height and spread: 3m x 3m in 20 years.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Prunus incisa ‘Kojo-no-mai’ (dwarf flowering cherry)</strong> is a small shrubby tree that can be grown in a large container. In spring, the spreading branches are smothered in dainty white flowers, and the autumn leaves are a brilliant glowing red. Height and spread: 2m x 2m in 20 years.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Whatever size your garden is, we have a tree to suit you. Visit our centre today to choose from our fantastic range!</p>

Top 7 trees for small gardens

<p>How can you tell a <strong>plant is hardy</strong> or not? Read this blog!</p>

<p>How can you tell a <strong>plant is hardy</strong> or not? Although frosty winter mornings can be beautiful, it’s heartbreaking to see your favourite plants fall victim to the icy temperatures. But once you understand how plant hardiness ratings work, you can give your plants the protection they need to see them safely through the winter months.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>What does hardiness mean?</h2>
<p>Hardiness measures a plant’s ability to stand cold winter temperatures in the gardening world. The Royal Horticultural Society has developed a hardiness rating system that classifies plants in accordance with the minimum temperature they can withstand. This rating system runs from hardiness level H7 (plants that can survive temperatures below -20°C/-4°F) to H1a (plants that must be kept above 15°C/59°F).</p>
<h2>Hardiness definitions</h2>
<p>Not all plant websites or labels classify their plants using the RHS ratings, so it’s helpful to know some of the other terminology used to describe hardiness and how it relates to the RHS definitions.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Tender</strong> – these plants can’t survive temperatures below 0°C/32°F and need to be grown indoors in winter, although they may be able to be placed outside in summer. These correspond to levels H1a, H1b, H1c and H2 on the RHS hardiness rating table.</li>
<li><strong>Half-hardy</strong> – these plants will typically cope with brief periods of temperatures down to -5°C/23°F. They can survive winter outdoors in mild areas but will need protection in colder regions or hard winters. Half-hardy plants correspond to level H3 on the RHS hardiness rating table.</li>
<li><strong>Fully hardy</strong> – these plants will survive a minimum temperature of at least -10°C/14°F. They correspond to levels H4-H7 on the RHS hardiness rating table.</li>
</ul>
<p>NB: The hardiness of a plant indicates the minimum temperature that it can survive, but other factors also need to be considered. One of the most important is soil drainage. A hardy plant can still be killed by cold weather if it’s waterlogged, and a borderline hardy plant is more likely to survive a cold snap in well-drained soil.</p>
<h2>How to protect plants in winter</h2>
<p>Many plants will need some protection to get them safely through the cold months. Here are a few tips on how to protect your plants in winter.</p>
<ul>
<li>Raise pots on pot feet to stop the compost from getting waterlogged. Even hardy plants may die in winter if planted in poorly drained pots that freeze when the temperature drops.</li>
<li>Plant roots are more vulnerable to the cold in pots, so in cold areas, it’s a good idea to wrap pots in fleece or bubble wrap to provide some insulation.</li>
<li>Move tender plants indoors into a greenhouse or conservatory to protect them from frosts.</li>
<li>In temperate areas, protect tender dahlia and begonia tubers by covering the ground with a thick layer of organic mulch such as compost or straw.</li>
</ul>
<p>If you’re looking for plants that can cope with winter weather, visit our centre to see our superb range of hardy plants. Our staff will be happy to help you!</p>

What is a hardy plant?

<p>Why not <strong>make your own terrarium</strong> to add plants to your home in a fun and stylish way.</p>

<p>Why not <strong>make your own terrarium</strong> to add plants to your home in a fun and stylish way. Terrariums can be bought pre-planted and ready for you to take home and enjoy but making your own is even better as you get to choose the container, the plants and even the theme, making it a personal terrarium to have in your home. They are easy to both create and maintain.</p>
<h2>Know the history before you make your own terrarium&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Victorian physician Nathanial Bagshaw Ward was the first to find out ferns could be grown inside a bottle, and this was then used to transport plants around the world. Essentially a glass bottle, it was then called ‘The Wardian’.</p>
<h2>Make your own terrarium with a choice of containers</h2>
<p>You can use many shapes and sizes to create a terrarium, depending on the style you want it to be. You can take your pick from glass bottles to a bell-shaped cloche to even a hanging bauble.</p>
<h2>Know the growing mediums used to make your own terrarium&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Usually, there will be gravel at the bottom, charcoal, moss, and soil on top. This means plants that love moisture will take it from the soil, which evaporates via the leaves (transpiration), and as the water drops form, they will drip down and back into the soil, and the process happens over and over sustaining the plants in the terrarium.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Which plants to choose when making a terrarium</h2>
<p>Moisture-loving plants are ideal for a closed terrarium due to the humidity, and plants such as cacti and succulents will grow well in an open terrarium where it is drier. Moss, mini Ferns, Hypoestes, Peperomias and even carnivorous plants will grow well in a terrarium. For dryer plants, try any mini succulent, cacti or air plant.</p>
<h2>Make your own terrarium with a theme</h2>
<p>You can delicately place your plants into the soil using tweezers if the opening is small, and it’s bound to look lovely no matter what you include. If you want to try going with a theme, here are some ideas:</p>
<ul>
<li>you could make your terrarium into a fairy world with a bit of house and mini fairy,</li>
<li>if you have a dry terrarium, add a little sand and a mini beach ball and people hanging by the beach,</li>
<li>another lovely idea is to create a fantastic underwater-themed terrarium with seastars, sand, seashells and coral,</li>
<li>a popular choice is a woodland theme. Just add in some bark and moss,</li>
<li>and many more, you can have lots of fun!</li>
</ul>
<h2>After you’ve made your own terrarium, how to care for it?</h2>
<p>Make sure it isn’t placed in direct sunlight, and check how much water they need. Many won’t need any at all, but some will so gentle water or even use a mister to get the humidity up inside. If you have cacti and succulents, watering will be far less. You may need to prune some plants as they grow lightly.&nbsp;</p>
<p>To make your own terrarium plants and accessories, visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Make your own terrarium

<p>These are easy houseplants for any student to enjoy.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>student proof houseplants</strong> are the best plants to grow if you live in a busy world where study comes first and there are many other things to enjoy. Plants have become so trendy over recent years, and many students fill their rooms with plants to help aesthetics, motivation, and focus, all simultaneously having something to look after and nurture. Houseplants can help increase efficiency when working but will also require a little care, so you can take time out to absorb some nature before getting back to your books. These are easy houseplants for any student to enjoy.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Five student proof houseplants</h2>
<p>Discover this list of plants that are hard to kill, and add a little sparkle to your study.</p>
<ol>
<li><strong>Cacti&nbsp;</strong><br />
Some of the easiest plants to look after, not just for students, but anyone who has little time but wants to keep houseplants. They will also survive being left alone if you are heading home or away for an extended time. Needing very little water and just indirect light, these will soon become your prickly friends that require barely any attention.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Snake plant&nbsp;</strong><br />
The Sansevieria is one of the easiest plants to care for. It isn’t fussy at all, taking shade or indirect light. It can sit in a bedroom, living area or kitchen and will grow even if you forget to water it. Snake plants also have tiny baby plants that grow from the base, so if you look after them well, you will find more plants popping up that you can simply remove gently and pot on for more free plants.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Peace lily</strong><br />
Spathiphyllum is excellent for anyone who wants a houseplant but isn’t sure when to water them. Spathiphyllum is another plant that needs only a little attention.&nbsp;The white flowers are instantly recognisable and gorgeous. When it isn’t flowering, the green foliage looks just as good. Give the leaves a duct once in a while, and you will know when it needs watering as it will instantly tell you. The leaves will begin to wilt, meaning it’s time to give it a good water.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Swiss cheese plant</strong><br />
The Monstera had made a big comeback from the ’70s when it was in almost every home! The big, glossy green leaves are beautiful, and they can easily be propagated for more free plants. It’s also easy to look after with indirect light and watering when the soil dries. They grow big too so that you can have your jungle in your room.&nbsp;</li>
<li><strong>Aloe vera</strong><br />
The Aloe Vera isn’t just easy to look after, but it can also be used on minor burns, acne and other skin conditions as long as you are sure you are not allergic. Make sure you choose an Aloe vera (there are different types of Aloe) and place it where it will receive bright, indirect sunlight. The flesh leaves retain the moisture, so they only need watering infrequently.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<p>Visit us to choose your new easy to care for houseplants from our range.&nbsp;</p>

Student Proof Houseplants 

<p>You can <strong>design a bird-friendly garden</strong> with just a few additions or changes to any size space.</p>

<p>You can <strong>design a bird-friendly garden</strong> with just a few additions or changes to any size space. Gardening with wildlife in mind is a beautiful way to bring even more life to your garden, sharing it with birds, butterflies, bats, insects, and so much more. Research has even shown that the more biodiverse your garden is, the higher your wellbeing score as well. So, encouraging more birds to your garden is beneficial for you, your garden birds and the wider environment.&nbsp;</p>
<ol>
<li>Plant native hedging&nbsp;</li>
<li>Offer supplementary feed</li>
<li>Install some bird boxes</li>
<li>Encourage more insects</li>
</ol>
<h2>Plant native hedging when you design a bird-friendly garden</h2>
<p>One of the best ways to provide homes, nesting space and food to encourage more birds to your garden is to plant native hedging. Instead of wooden fences or brick walls, natural hedging is an essential addition to a bird-friendly garden. This will provide some of the most well-loved garden birds and other insects and wildlife, helping create a fully biodiverse space. Many native shrubs and trees will also provide nectar for pollinators and berries for birds. Time to remove the fence panels!&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Design a&nbsp;bird-friendly garden and offer supplementary feed</h2>
<p>When you design your garden to be bird-friendly, think about where you will be able to hang or offer supplementary bird food. This can include seeds, mealworms and fat balls, and a water source, such as a bird table. Design your space with these in mind, so they complement your garden style. There are so many options, from bird feeders that can hang from trees to feeders that can be stuck to your windows. Bird tables can be positioned where you can sit back and enjoy watching the birds take a bath and splash around.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Install some bird boxes when you design a bird-friendly garden&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Think about where you will be able to put up some bird boxes in your garden, making sure there is safe wall space where predators can’t reach the box. Make sure birds can get clear access to the box and that the box won’t be in direct sunlight or harsh wind and rain. If you install a few different boxes in various locations around your garden, you may find other species nesting. It is so exciting to see birds taking up home in the boxes you provide, and you could even add in a bird-watching camera to see what goes on in the box!</p>
<h2>Design a bird-friendly garden and encourage more insects</h2>
<p>Birds love to eat insects. Allow some grass to grow long, leave seed heads on perennials, don’t worry so much about the weeds and plant for pollinators in mind. This way, you will find more insects and, in turn, more birds.&nbsp;</p>
<p>We have everything you need for your bird-friendly garden from native plants to bird boxes, bird food, and pollinator-friendly plants.&nbsp;</p>

Design a bird-friendly garden

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for February</strong>.&nbsp;</p>

<p>February’s all about getting the garden ready for spring. It’s time to prune those shrubs, get those beds ready for planting and sort out that pile of seed packets. Spend some time getting things organised now, and you’ll reap the benefits in a month or two. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for February</strong>.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Top 15 gardening tips for February</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Prune buddleja and fuchsia, cutting buddleja stems back to 30cm above ground level. On fuchsias, prune last year’s growth to two buds from the main woody framework.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Wisteria gets pruned twice a year, in summer and winter, and now’s the time for the winter pruning. Cut back all last year’s growth to two or three buds from the main framework.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prune winter-flowering shrubs like Mahonia and Viburnum once they have finished flowering to keep them to size.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut back shrubby dogwood (Cornus sanguinea) and willow (Salix) to about 15cm (6in) above ground level. This encourages them to produce new, brightly coloured young stems, which will look great in the garden next winter.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Group 3 (late-flowering) clematis should be pruned now. Cut back all the stems to 30cm (12in) above ground level.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Autumn fruiting raspberries are easy to prune – cut down all stems to ground level this month before the new growth appears.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prune shrub roses, remove all dead, damaged, or crossing branches and cut the main stems by half. When pruning, always cut just above an outward-facing bud.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut back deciduous grasses like Deschampsia and Calamagrostis, removing last year’s dead leaves before the new growth appears. (Miscanthus is slower to start growing, so leave this for another month.)</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Comb through evergreen grasses like Carex and Festuca with your hands to remove any dead leaves. Always wear gardening gloves when doing this to protect your fingers from cuts.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Epimediums will start flowering soon, so cut back the heart-shaped leaves now so that you can appreciate the delicate flowers when they appear. This also encourages a flush of fresh new leaves.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Chit first early potatoes by placing them in a bright, excellent, frost-free spot indoors so that they can produce shoots. They should be ready to plant in mid to late March.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prepare veg beds for early sowings by covering the soil with black plastic or fleece to warm it up.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Plant trees and shrubs, provided the ground isn’t waterlogged or frozen.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Lift and divide snowdrops once they’ve finished flowering, and replant the clumps to spread them around your garden.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Clean your pots and seed trays ready for sowing, and stock up on seeds and compost.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>If your garden requires a boost after winter, visit our centre, where you’ll find plenty of plants, seeds and gardening tools to get it back in shape!</p>

15 gardening tips for February

<p>Here's our <strong>guide to the different types of seed potato</strong>.</p>

<p><strong>Growing your own potatoes</strong> is very rewarding, and they're great fun for kids to harvest. And by choosing the right varieties, you can harvest potatoes from early summer well into autumn. Here's our guide to the different types of seed potato.</p>
<h2>Types of seed potato</h2>
<p>Potatoes are grown from seed potatoes, which are tubers from the previous year's harvest. You can grow potato plants from supermarket-bought potatoes. Still, you're likely to get a better crop from commercially produced seed potatoes which have been specially selected for their performance and certified virus-free. Seed potatoes are available to buy from early spring and are categorised as first early, second early or maincrop depending on when they are harvested.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>First early potatoes</h2>
<p>First early potatoes are planted in early spring and are the first potatoes to be harvested in early summer. Also known as 'new' potatoes, the tubers are generally small, with thin skins, firm waxy flesh and a sweet flavour. First earlies are best eaten straight after harvesting. They're ideal for growing in a large container.</p>
<p>Popular first early potatoes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Potato 'Red Duke of York' AGM – a heritage variety with red skins and yellow flesh.&nbsp;</li>
<li>Potato' Foremost' AGM – early harvests of potatoes with firm white tasty flesh, delicious steamed or boiled. It stores well, unlike many first earlies.</li>
<li>Potato 'Pentland Javelin' AGM – good crops of long oval tubers with white flesh, ideal for mashing or boiling.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Second early potatoes</h2>
<p>Second early potatoes are planted a few weeks later than the first earlies and are harvested in early to mid-summer. They are ideal for those of us gardeners who are never quite organised enough in early spring to plant first earlies! Second earlies are usually good salad potatoes, with waxy flesh that stays firm after cooking. Some can also be used for baking, roasting or frying.</p>
<p>Popular second early potatoes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Potato 'Charlotte' AGM – long tubers with firm, creamy yellow flesh and excellent flavour.</li>
<li>Potato' Jazzy' AGM – big harvests of tubers, perfect for roasting, mashing or boiling.</li>
<li>Potato 'Nadine' AGM – a high-yielding, disease-resistant variety ideal for boiling or sautéing.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Maincrop potatoes</h2>
<p>Maincrop potatoes are planted in mid-spring. They take longer to mature than first and second earlies and are usually bigger. Maincrop potatoes are ready for harvest in late summer and early autumn and have a wide range of uses in the kitchen, including baking, roasting and frying.</p>
<p>Popular maincrop potatoes:</p>
<ul>
<li>Potato 'Maris Piper' AGM – one of the best-known varieties, producing well-shaped tubers ideal for mashing, baking and chipping.</li>
<li>Potato 'Desiree' AGM – red-skinned tubers with creamy white flesh. A remarkably drought-resistant variety that's well suited to mashing.</li>
<li>Potato 'King Edward' AGM – very popular and one of the last to harvest, making it ideal for Christmas dinners.</li>
</ul>
<p>Fancy growing your own potatoes this year? Visit our centre to see our fantastic range of seed potatoes. We also stock a wide selection of other vegetable seeds and plants to get your garden year off to a great start!</p>

Explaining seed potatoes

<p>When the weather is cold, and food is scarce, our <strong>garden birds need our help to get them through the winter</strong>.</p>

<p>When the weather is cold, and food is scarce, our <strong>garden birds need our help to get them through the winter</strong>. Whether it’s putting up a bird feeder or planting bird-friendly bushes in your garden, there’s lots you can do to give your garden birds some support through the coldest months of the year.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Should we feed birds?</h2>
<p>Before you put out your bird feeders, do a little research about the birds in your local area. A recent study by Manchester Metropolitan University suggests that in some situations, putting out food for birds can make some of the more assertive species like blue tits and great tits too dominant, causing the populations of less prevalent birds to go into decline. If you’re in an urban environment, it’s generally still a good idea to put out extra food for birds. However, in the countryside, and especially if you live in an area where at-risk species such as willow tits and marsh tits are found, you may do more good by adding bird-friendly plants to your garden than by hanging up bird feeders.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Bird-friendly plants</h2>
<p>Berry-bearing plants are the most natural food source for birds in winter. Rowan, hawthorn, holly, cotoneaster and pyracantha are all excellent choices for a bird-friendly garden. Mature ivy is also a beneficial plant – the energy-rich berries provide food for birds, and the evergreen leaves give good shelter.&nbsp;</p>
<p>The seedheads of flowering perennials like teasels, echinacea and rudbeckia all provide food for birds in autumn, so consider planting some of these in your garden to encourage next year’s foraging birds. Goldfinches also feast on dandelion seeds, which is a great reason to leave a few of these wildlife-friendly plants to flourish in the corner of your garden.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Tips on feeding birds</h2>
<p>If you are putting out food for birds in winter, follow these tips:</p>
<ul>
<li>Remove any netting or mesh bags from suet balls to avoid birds getting their feet caught in the netting.</li>
<li>Soak dried mealworms in warm water for an hour before putting them out to give birds some much-needed hydration. Mealworms are a favourite with robins, blackbirds and blue tits.</li>
<li>Clean bird feeders regularly in hot soapy water to avoid transmitting diseases that can devastatingly affect bird populations.</li>
<li>Place feeders in the open so that birds can see predators like cats approaching. If possible, position the feeders somewhere near shrubs or trees to give birds an escape route.</li>
<li>Keep bird baths topped up with fresh, clean water. As well as drinking, birds need to keep their feathers clean in winter so that they retain their insulating qualities.</li>
</ul>
<p>We have everything you need to support your garden birds, from bird feeders and baths to bird-friendly plants. Visit our centre today!</p>

Top tips for feeding birds in winter

<p>To improve your chances of success when underplanting trees, follow these tips.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>

<p>It’s a quintessential image, a beautiful woodland in dappled sunlight with trees surrounded by a sea of bobbing bluebells. But the truth is, it can be a real challenge to get anything to grow under a tree. The tree takes most of the soil’s moisture and nutrients, and the canopy blocks out much of the sunlight for plants underneath. Despite all this, some <strong>plants will grow and even thrive under trees</strong>, given the proper care and attention.</p>
<h2>Underplanting deciduous and evergreen trees</h2>
<p>It’s much easier to get plants to establish under deciduous trees than under evergreens, as the plants benefit from early spring sunshine before the trees put on leaves. Even once the leaves appear, a deciduous tree’s canopy tends to be less dense than that of an evergreen. It can be tough getting anything&nbsp;to establish under conifers, as the ground under them is in the shade all year round. To improve your chances of success when underplanting trees, follow these tips.&nbsp;&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Tips for successful planting under trees</h2>
<ul>
<li>Choose plants that can cope with shade and dry soil.</li>
<li>Add extra organic matter such as garden compost or well-rotted farmyard manure to planting holes to compensate for the poor soil.</li>
<li>Water your plants regularly in the first year while getting established, and mulch them in spring.</li>
<li>The southwest side is likely to get more rain, driven by westerly winds, than the northeast side.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Six plants to plant under trees</h2>
<p>Given a bit of encouragement, these plants will grow successfully under trees, providing colour as well as ground cover.</p>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Lamium maculatum (deadnettle)</strong> – a beautiful groundcover plant with variegated silver and green leaves and spires of pink or white flowers in spring that are a good early nectar source for bees.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Cyclamen coum</strong> – these winter-flowering perennials have attractive marbled silver-green leaves and delicate-looking pink or white flowers with back-swept petals. Once established, they will gradually spread to form a carpet of colour in the coldest months of the year.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Pulmonaria (lungwort)</strong> – another shade-loving perennial with silver-spotted green leaves and blue or pink flowers that appear in spring. A favourite with bees.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Epimedium</strong> – one of the best perennials for planting under trees, forming low mounds of heart-shaped green leaves that often have good colour in winter. Cut the foliage back in early spring to see the delicate early flowers.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Vinca minor</strong> – this low-growing evergreen shrub spreads by underground runners and can be invasive in good soil, but the difficult conditions under trees will keep it in check. This is a&nbsp;good groundcover plant producing pretty blue flowers over a long period from spring to autumn. Trim it in spring to keep it from spreading too far.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Ivy</strong> – if all else fails, ivy will grow almost anywhere, even in deep shade.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Struggling to find the right plants for underplanting your trees? Visit our centre and take a look at our wide selection of plants for all conditions. Our friendly staff are always happy to help!</p>

Tips for planting under trees

<p>These <strong>top 5 houseplants that clean the air</strong> are great plants to have in your home or office to help clear the air of common toxins that we are all subjected to from modern-day living.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 houseplants that clean the air</strong> are great plants to have in your home or office to help clear the air of common toxins that we are all subjected to from modern-day living. NASA was the first to study clean air with houseplants in the 1980s, and they found many able to absorb toxins at quite a pace! Some will even continue to do so overnight. Plants really are fantastic!</p>
<h2>Five houseplants that clean the air</h2>
<ol>
<li>Pothos (Devils ivy): One of the easiest plants to grow in any home. The Pothos is a trailing plant and can be propagated easily by cuttings. Instead of trailing, they can, even with support, grow up the wall and around the tops of cupboards for maximum green effect. Ranging from darker green foliage to variegated foliage, they can reduce formaldehyde and benzene along with more toxins from your home. A great plant to clear toxins.</li>
<li>Chlorophytum comosum (Spider plant):&nbsp;Grown in many households in the 1970s, the spider plant never goes out of fashion! Another houseplant needs&nbsp;very little care and produces lots of ‘spiderettes’. These can be propagated by potting up for even more free plants. They filter out harmful toxins such as benzene, trichloroethylene, and formaldehyde, so they do a great job cleaning the air.</li>
<li>Spathiphyllum (Peace lily): The classic and popular white flowers make the peace lily instantly recognisable. Needing very little care but a little more watering than the previous two, you will know it is time to water it if you spot it wilting. Not only is it a pretty plant, but it is also working hard to clear the air of toxins, including carbon monoxide and formaldehyde, to name a few.</li>
<li>Sansevieria (Mother in laws tongue): There is another&nbsp;well-loved houseplant that no home should be without. They are used frequently in office spaces due to how easy they are to care for. Also called the snake plant, they are one of the toughest houseplants. The Sansevieria is a perfect plant for beginner houseplant enthusiasts and anyone who simply forgets to water plants! One of these can clear the air of numerous toxins in the home or office, as found in the NASA clean air study.</li>
<li>Hedera helix (English ivy): Ivy is more commonly recognised as an outdoor plant, but they are perfect trailing houseplants that remove many toxins from home. Happy growing in shade or sun, with plain or variegated foliage, they can live for many years in a house doing an excellent job of cleansing the air for you too.&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<p>Clean the air in your home with houseplants from our in store collection.&nbsp;</p>

Top 5 houseplants that clean the air

<p>Here are our <strong>top tips on how to train your climbing houseplant</strong>.</p>

<p>Houseplants can do so much more than simply sit on a shelf. Climbing houseplants can turn your indoor space into a lush green zone that resembles a tropical paradise by twining elegantly around a support or up a trellis. Here are our <strong>top tips on how to train your climbing houseplant</strong>.</p>
<h2>Choosing a climbing houseplant</h2>
<p>Many indoor plants sold as trailing plants for hanging baskets can be trained to climb, and some will actually do better as climbing plants than if left to trail. Here are a few to look out for:</p>
<ul>
<li>Philodendrons – a huge genus of plants with long stems and heart-shaped green leaves. The stems produce small aerial roots that will attach themselves to structures if given a chance. Philodendrons are easy, undemanding plants, preferring bright but indirect light.</li>
<li>Pothos (devil’s ivy) – have heart-shaped leaves similar to Philodendrons but are usually gold and green variegated. Pothos are easy to grow in bright, indirect light and can be cut back as needed to keep them under control.</li>
<li>Tradescantia – These attractive plants produce long trailing stems with purple and silver-variegated leaves. The trailing stems can be tied to supports to encourage them to climb. Tradescantias do well in bright, filtered light.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Tips on training climbing houseplants</h2>
<ul>
<li>Using pipe cleaners, you can train trailing plants against a wall by putting up hooks and tying the stems. However, bear in mind that in time, the plant’s aerial roots are likely to attach themselves to the wall and may pull the paint off when removed. If you don’t want this to happen, put up a support structure like a trellis for the aerial roots to cling to instead.&nbsp;</li>
<li>If you want to put a stake into a plant pot to give your plant something to twine around, the best way to do this is to repot the plant, placing the stake in the new pot at the same time. This reduces the risk of damaging the plant’s roots, which is very likely to happen if you simply push a stake into a pot that already contains a plant.</li>
<li>Plants will naturally grow towards the light, so consider this when supporting your plant. It’s always easiest to encourage the plant in the direction it wants to go!</li>
<li>Train vines gradually upwards to reduce the risk of snapping them.</li>
</ul>
<h2>Caring for climbing houseplants</h2>
<p>A trailing houseplant may start to grow faster once it has been trained to climb, as it gets more light, so be prepared to feed and water it more often. And don’t be afraid to prune vines that are getting out of control. Pothos, philodendrons and tradescantia all respond well to being cut back.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Give your home a new look this year with a few climbing houseplants. We have a fantastic range of indoor plants in our centre, so visit us today to find the right one for your home!</p>

How to train your climbing houseplant

<p>If you are wondering how to take hardwood cuttings during this season, read the below advice.</p>

<p>It’s the perfect time for <strong>taking winter cuttings</strong>, meaning more plants for free - and who doesn’t like that? Taking cuttings can be really fun and a great way to keep your green fingers active over the winter months. Hardwood cuttings are taken from mid-autumn through to late winter, so you have plenty of time to get some into pots ready to settle in before root growth in spring. If you are wondering how to take hardwood cuttings during this season, read the below advice.</p>
<ol>
<li>When to take cuttings&nbsp;</li>
<li>What can you take cuttings from</li>
<li>How to take cuttings&nbsp;</li>
<li>What to do with your cuttings next&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<h2>When exactly should I start taking winter cuttings?&nbsp;</h2>
<p>You now know that winter cuttings are taken from mid-autumn to late winter, but there will be periods within those months you should avoid. If the garden is particularly wet and frozen, avoid taking cuttings until there is a dryer day. They can be taken any time but generally may root better just after the leaves have fallen or right before buds start to open.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Taking winter cuttings from your plants&nbsp;</h2>
<p>If you wonder what you can take cuttings from at this time of year, there are many to choose from. Most deciduous shrubs are ideal for taking winter cuttings, such as dogwood, flowering currants, roses, honeysuckle, gooseberries and figs. You can also take cuttings from trees such as willow and poplar. You can take cuttings from a few evergreens, including holly and skimmia.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>How to start taking winter cuttings for success</h2>
<p>Have a good look at your plats and take cuttings with a sharp snip. They should be healthy and current years growth. Remove the soft tip and cut it into sections, so each is no more than 30cm long. The cut should be above a bud at the top, sloping away from the bud and straight at the bottom. You can dip the base into a rooting hormone or not (results vary with either).&nbsp;</p>
<h2>What is next when taking winter cuttings&nbsp;</h2>
<ul>
<li>When you have your cuttings ready, they can be placed into a prepared trench outside.</li>
<li>The soil needs to be well-drained with well-rotted organic matter dug in.</li>
<li>Make sure two-thirds of the cuttings are below the ground, and it can be helpful to layer some sand at the bottom of the trench.</li>
<li>Please make sure the trench is in a place where the cuttings can stay until the following autumn when you can pot them on and don’t allow them to dry out.</li>
<li>If you only have a few cuttings, they can also be grown in containers with a well-drained, gritty compost in a sheltered place.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>For containers, grit, compost, cutting tools and accessories - visit us in store.&nbsp;</p>

Taking winter cuttings

<p>Here’s a quick <strong>guide to fertilisers and how to interpret an NPK ratio</strong>.</p>

<p>We all know that our plants need feeding, just like we do. But with so many different types of fertiliser available, how do you know which one is best for your plant? And just what is that mysterious NPK formula on the back of the fertiliser package all about? Here’s a quick <strong>guide to fertilisers and how to interpret an NPK ratio</strong>.</p>
<h2>What is a fertiliser?</h2>
<p>As well as water, air and sunlight, plants need a range of minerals and nutrients to thrive. They get most of these from the soil, absorbing them in liquid form through their roots. If the soil is poor, or if the plants are particularly heavy feeders, adding fertiliser provides the extra minerals that the plants need.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Organic fertilisers are made from plant or animal materials, such as bone meal or seaweed. Inorganic fertilisers, for example, Growmore and Tomorite, are manufactured using chemicals. Inorganic fertilisers are generally faster-acting than organic fertilisers, which take longer to break down in the soil.</p>
<h2>What is the NPK ratio?</h2>
<p>Three essential elements necessary for plant growth are nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.&nbsp;</p>
<ul>
<li>Nitrogen (chemical symbol N) promotes green leafy growth</li>
<li>Phosphorus (chemical symbol P) is essential for the development of healthy roots and shoots</li>
<li>Potassium (chemical symbol K) encourages the development of flowers and fruits.</li>
</ul>
<p>Different plants need different proportions of these three minerals to develop to their full potential. Leafy green vegetables like spinach and chard will benefit from a nitrogen-rich fertiliser while growing. Plants like tomatoes that produce fruit, or flowering plants like roses, need an extra boost of potassium to perform at their best.&nbsp;</p>
<p>The proportion of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in any fertiliser is known as the NPK ratio and is shown on the packaging as a list of three numbers. For example, the popular tomato fertiliser Tomorite has an NPK ratio of 4-3-8. This means that it contains 4% nitrogen, 3% phosphorus compounds and 8% potassium compounds. On the other hand, a balanced fertiliser will have roughly equal amounts of each element.</p>
<h2>What does ‘potash’ mean?</h2>
<p>You’ll often see a fertiliser containing high levels of potassium referred to as ‘high-potash’ rather than ‘high-potassium’. This is because the potassium in the fertiliser is in the form of various chemical compounds such as potassium carbonate, which dissolves readily in water and is therefore easy for plants to absorb through their roots. Before modern manufacturing methods were available, these compounds were made from wood ash dissolved in water and then boiled down in iron pots, hence the name ‘pot-ash’.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Tips on applying fertilisers</h2>
<ul>
<li>Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions.</li>
<li>Don’t overfeed plants, as this can result in over-lush growth that attracts aphids.</li>
<li>Don’t use fertiliser at a higher concentration than recommended.</li>
<li>Water plants well before applying liquid feeds to avoid burning their roots.</li>
</ul>
<p>Need advice on which fertiliser is best for your plants? Visit our centre, where our staff will be happy to help.</p>

NPK fertiliser ratios explained

<p>Read our <strong>top 6</strong> <strong>mood-boosting gardening tips</strong> to make you feel better.</p>

<p><strong>Blue Monday</strong> is here again, supposedly the most depressing day of the year thanks to a gloomy combination of bad weather, long nights and a reaction to all that festive partying last month. But there&rsquo;s light at the end of the tunnel. The days are getting longer, spring is just around the corner, and we&rsquo;ve put together our <strong>top 6</strong> <strong>mood-boosting gardening tips</strong> to make you feel better.</p>

<h2>Top 6 mood-boosting gardening tips to skip Blue Monday</h2>

<ol>
	<li>
	<p>It&rsquo;s a fact that digging makes you feel good. Working with the soil releases a form of soil bacteria called Mycobacterium vaccae that boosts serotonin &ndash; the &lsquo;happy hormone&rsquo; that helps regulate your mood, promoting satisfaction, happiness and optimism. So grab your trowel, get out there and get in touch with your soil and you&rsquo;ll soon be feeling better.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Studies have shown that being around nature improves our mood and our creativity levels. A study by the University of Exeter at the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in 2013 got show&nbsp;visitors to spend time in different workspace environments and then test their creativity, happiness and productivity levels. Results showed that letting people make design decisions in spaces that contain plenty of plants can increase creativity by 45%, feelings of well-being by up to 47% and productivity by 38%. So if you&rsquo;re at your desk feeling blue, simply placing a few beautiful indoor plants around your room could make all the difference to your working day.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Few things are more cheering in winter than the sight of new spring bulbs poking their green tips up through the earth. If you didn&rsquo;t have the time to plant spring bulbs last autumn, you could still enjoy the results. Buy potted spring bulbs in the garden centre, and once you&rsquo;ve enjoyed the flowers, plant the bulbs out in your garden so you&rsquo;ll be able to enjoy them all over again next year.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>Now&rsquo;s a great time to plant bare-root roses and shrubs, and it&rsquo;s a very cost-effective way to grow. Getting physical with a shovel triggers those mood-enhancing hormones, and imagining how great your plants will look when they&rsquo;re all in flower in the summer is sure to put a smile on your face.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>If the weather&rsquo;s too bleak for gardening outdoors, you can still get in touch with your green fingers indoors. Tidy up the greenhouse, wash out your old pots in some warm soapy water and get everything ready so that this spring will be your best ever.</p>
	</li>
	<li>
	<p>And on those long dark winter evenings, settle into your most comfortable chair with a mug of tea and plan your veg plot for the year. Stock up on your seeds and start dreaming of stupendous harvests!</p>
	</li>
</ol>

<p>Winter&rsquo;s on its way out, and we have everything you need in our centres to get your garden into shape for spring. Visit us soon to see what&rsquo;s in store!</p>

6 Blue Monday mood-boosting gardening tips

<p>These <strong>top 5 common houseplant problems</strong> are often experienced by most houseplant owners, no matter how much experience and knowledge they have.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 5 common houseplant problems</strong> are often experienced by most houseplant owners, no matter how much experience and knowledge they have. To avoid them as best you can, these tips will help you to keep your plants in the best condition that you can and help you to spot any problem that comes up as soon as possible so you can rectify it.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Five common houseplant problems</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Wilting plants</strong><br />
There will be many times you’ll notice a wilting plant. Most often it is due to under watering and your plant is simply telling you it’s time for water. Basil and Spathiphyllum (Peace lily) are examples of two plants that will wilt. If you water them soon enough, they will spring back to life! If you leave them too long, they will most likely die very quickly. Other reasons for wilting are too much direct sun or heat, pests and diseases and generally an unhappy plant.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Yellowing leaves&nbsp;</strong><br />
If you keep a close eye on your plants, each time you walk by or as you water, you will soon spot leaves that are turning yellow. Sometimes this will just be the natural process as the oldest plant leaves age and drop off. If that’s not the case, it could be a case of too much light, or over/under-watering. Make sure each plant has the right levels of moisture and feed if needed to avoid yellowing leaves.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Long leggy growth&nbsp;</strong><br />
If your plant is growing tall and fast with lengthy stems, towards the light - this is a certain sign that it isn’t getting enough light. If you see this happening move it nearer to a light source and turn it around so all parts of the plant grow evenly and bushy.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Leaning plants&nbsp;</strong><br />
Plants will lean generally because they need support as they grow. If a taller or fast-growing plant is growing without the support it needs, the plant will start to lean over. Carefully tie it up to support or trellis, and replenish the compost if needed.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Rotting plant&nbsp;</strong><br />
If you notice foliage or stems rotting, it could be a sign of root rot. Smaller plants may even go mushy and brown from the bottom. That's a definite sign your plant is in trouble. Root rot is quite hard to fix and your plant may well need to be replaced but you can try cutting away rotting roots and repotting. Often plants are killed with kindness. Overwatering is one way to not just cause root rot but many other problems as well.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Always keep your plant labels when you buy them so you can refer to them for care instructions.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Visit us in store and speak to our friendly if you need any plant advice.&nbsp;</p>

Fantastic ferns to grow indoors

<p>So what can you do at this time of year to spruce up your balcony?&nbsp;</p>

<p>It’s time to <strong>give your balcony a fresh start for the year</strong> so you can be sure it will thrive as the months warm up and you start getting busy sowing seeds, planting out and harvesting. It might be cold outside or even seem like there isn’t so much to be doing on a balcony at this time of year, but it is the perfect time to get some tidying up done and put plans into place. So what can you do at this time of year to spruce up your balcony?&nbsp;</p>
<ol>
<li>Sweep and scrub&nbsp;</li>
<li>Check out storage and pots&nbsp;</li>
<li>Prune and deadhead</li>
<li>Make plans&nbsp;</li>
</ol>
<h2>Give your balcony a fresh start for the year with a cleanup&nbsp;</h2>
<p>Sweeping and scrubbing your balcony at this time of year is an excellent way to freshen things up and get ready for the year ahead. Sweep up debris and scrub off any pot marks, clean the railings, and on finer days, you could even give things that need it a lick of paint. You’ll be good to go in spring if you do this now.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Check your storage and pots to give your balcony a fresh start for the new year</h2>
<p>If you have storage on your balcony, you could give it a clear-out and discard anything you need, so you have plenty of room for new gardening accessories in the new year. If you don’t have storage but would like a space to store pots or tools over winter, make some space and measure up for further storage. If you have any pots lying around, give them a clean up ready for spring and store them safely.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Give your balcony a fresh start for the year by pruning and deadheading&nbsp;</h2>
<p>You can give your plants a tidy up by removing dead, diseased or damaged material and even replenishing compost in the pots if needed. By removing fallen leaves and any other unwanted plant material, you will see a big difference and ensure you aren’t harbouring any pests or diseases underneath or around your pots and containers.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Make plans to give your balcony a fresh start for the new year&nbsp;</h2>
<p>If the weather isn’t favourable or you are not sure what you want to grow for the year ahead, why not wrap up warm, pull up a chair and sit outside on the balcony while you make some plans. Being out there will give you the opportunity to move about some pots or containers, write lists of things you would like to do and get planning for a thriving space.&nbsp;</p>
<p>Balcony gardening can be advantageous and productive with flowers and edibles, so make use of your space and enjoy growing your balcony garden.</p>
<p>Visit us in store for pots, containers, compost and everything you need for a balcony garden.&nbsp;</p>

Give your balcony a fresh start for the year

<p>Follow these simple <strong>guidelines to keep your indoor plants healthy</strong> and happy all year round.</p>

<p>When the garden outside is looking wintry and bare, many of us turn to house plants for a much-needed dose of greenery. Follow these simple <strong>guidelines to keep your indoor plants healthy</strong> and happy all year round.</p>
<h2>Do your research first</h2>
<p>Before you buy, decide where you want your plants to go, so you know whether you need plants that prefer light or shade. Check the labels when you buy plants to ensure they’ll be suitable for you. There’s no point in buying plants that aren’t right for your space, as they’ll struggle or die, which is very disheartening!</p>
<h2>Watering houseplants</h2>
<p>Don’t overwater. More houseplants are killed by overwatering than any other cause. Don't leave your house plants sitting in a drip tray filled with water unless you’re growing plants native to boggy areas (such as carnivorous plants like sundews and sarracenia). This will exclude all the air from the compost, the roots will rot, and your plant will die. When you water your plants, check the drip trays afterwards and empty them once all the water has drained through.</p>
<p>But don’t underwater either. It can be tricky to tell whether the compost is dry, so use your finger to check the moisture level below the compost surface.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Feeding houseplants</h2>
<p>There’s no one-size-fits-all rule for feeding plants, but don’t overfeed as this is likely to kill the plant. Different plants have different feeding needs., so check your plant’s requirements and follow the instructions on any specialist feeds you buy.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Houseplant light requirements</h2>
<p>While all plants need some light, take care when placing plants on a sunny windowsill. Even sun-lovers can scorch on a hot sunny day. Most indoor plants do best with bright but indirect light.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Easy plants for new house plant growers</h2>
<p>If you’re new to growing house plants, try these three ultra-reliable stalwarts:</p>
<ul>
<li>The peace lily is suitable for shady positions and copes well with neglect. You’ll know if you’ve forgotten to water it, as the leaves will wilt, but it’s very forgiving and will revive quickly after watering. Feed once a month with dilute liquid houseplant feed, and wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust.</li>
<li>The spider plant prefers bright but indirect light. Water regularly to keep the compost just moist, and occasionally feed (2-3 times between spring and autumn) with dilute liquid houseplant feed. Spider plants produce little tufts of leaves that can be planted in pots filled with compost and grow into new plants.</li>
<li>Sansevieria – also known as the snake plant, this striking plant has narrow, upright leaves and can cope with a wide range of light levels. Water it when the compost feels dry, and feed once a month in spring and summer with dilute liquid houseplant feed.</li>
</ul>
<p>We have a fantastic range of house plants in the centre, plus pots, feed and everything else you need. Visit us soon and pick your perfect house plant!</p>

Tips to keep your houseplants healthy

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood.</p>

<p>These <strong>top 10 houseplants to replace the Christmas tree</strong> will all fill the space nicely where your Christmas tree once stood. When we take down the Christmas decorations, it can seem like the room feels bare, so if you'd still like the space filled with greenery, these plants will do just that for you.&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Top 10 Houseplants After Christmas</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p><strong>Fiddle leaf (Ficus Lyrata</strong>): a&nbsp;well known and loved plant that is easy to look after, despite its reputation, with just a few hints and tips. Smaller plants can be purchased or taller ones to fill a space, and they will need to be kept away from drafts in a room with lots of light and kept moderately moist.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Snake plant (Sansevieria)</strong>: one of the easiest houseplants to care for that will fill a Christmas tree space with ease. It's the best for easy care with minimal watering requirements and not being fussy about light conditions.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Dragon tree (Dracaena marginata)</strong>: needing a bright spot and moist compost, but equally, you might find lower light levels suit it well and watering as and when might work too! This one can last for many, many years, so it's worth putting in the place of your Christmas tree.n&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Norfolk Island Pine (Araucaria heterophylla)</strong>: if you would like to swap your Christmas tree for another Christmas tree that will look very similar, try the Norfolk Island Pine. High humidity and lots of light will keep this in great shape all year.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Weeping fig (Ficus benjamin)</strong>: bright, indirect light and regular watering will keep this growing fast and looking pristine. Less water during the winter months will help, and your weeping fig will thank you for it.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Bird of Paradise (Strelitzia)</strong>: another plant that will gracefully fill a Christmas tree spot. The Bird of Paradise doesn't need much attention if standing in bright light, without drafts and some humidity. You might have to wait a few years until it flowers, but when it does, it will be well worth the wait!&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Devils Ivy (Pothos)</strong>: instead of filling the space with a standing upright plant, why not try filling the room with a plant hanging from the ceiling instead? Devils Ivy will hang nicely and fill a corner spot without much care needed.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Swiss cheese plant (Monstera deliciosa)</strong>: the on-trend plant of the last few years will fill your Christmas tree spot with ease. Give it plenty of bright but not direct light and water every 1 to 2 weeks. Don't forget to dust the leaves to keep them looking shiny gently.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>Ravenea rivularis (Majesty palm)</strong>: a&nbsp;majestic palm with long fronds that will fill the space perfectly. All it will need is a bright corner and plenty of water. Keep your eye on it so you can remedy any changes.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p><strong>African Milk Tree (Euphorbia trigona)</strong>: minor&nbsp;water requirements and light to low light levels will see this plant well and growing for years.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Find the perfect houseplant to fill your bare space from our collection in store.</p>

Top 10 Houseplants to Replace the Christmas Tree

<p>Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>

<p>The New Year is here, and it’s time to get back out into the garden! The weather may still be wintry, but there’s plenty to do in your greenhouse and even outdoors to get ready for a great spring and summer season. Here are our <strong>top 15 gardening tips for January</strong>.</p>
<h2>15 gardening tips for January</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Provided the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged, now’s a good time to plant bare-root shrubs, trees, roses and fruit bushes. Bare root plants are great value for money, perfect if you’re planning to plant a new hedge or extend a shrub border.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you didn’t plant snowdrop bulbs last autumn, buy some that are in flower and plant them now. Snowdrops establish much more quickly when planted ‘in the green’ than bulbs.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut back any old perennial stems and leaves that have gone soggy in the winter rains and add them to your compost heap.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Cut off any old tatty hellebore foliage and dispose of it. Getting rid of these leaves helps stop the spread of hellebore black spot (a fungal disease) and makes it easier to see the flowers. Leave the fresh new foliage to grow.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Keep deadheading winter pansies, and they’ll reward you with a flush of flowers in spring.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you haven’t pruned your climbing roses, you can still do it now, and it’s easier to see what needs cutting when the plants are dormant.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Now’s also an excellent time to prune shrub roses before they start growing, removing all weak and spindly growth and cutting back main branches by one-third above an outward-facing bud.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Prune apple and pear trees, removing any dead, damaged or crossing branches and reducing congestion. Aim to create a tree with an open vase shape.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Give wisteria its January pruning – cut back last year’s shoots to 2-3 buds from the main framework.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Force rhubarb plants by covering them with a bucket. This will encourage the growth of delicious tender new stems for delicious desserts.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Tidy up the greenhouse and clean out all those old flower pots so that you’re ready to go when it’s time to sow seeds in spring.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Recycle your Christmas tree by putting it out for your local council collection, or chop it up and shred the branches to make mulch for your shrub borders.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Keep bird feeders and birdbaths topped up to see your garden birds through the last cold months of winter.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Harvest the last of your parsnips and leeks for satisfying winter stews</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>When the weather’s too cold and wet to go outside, get yourself a cup of tea, plan this year’s vegetable crops and order your seeds. And don’t forget to order seed potatoes, onion sets and garlic bulbs for spring planting.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>We have a fantastic range of plants, seeds and gardening kits in our centres, so visit us soon and get your gardening year off to a great start!</p>

15 January gardening tips

<p>Here are a few ideas on the <strong>best way to recycle your real Christmas tree</strong>.</p>

<p>There’s nothing like a real Christmas tree for making the festive season magical, sparkling with lights and filling the air with the fragrance of pine needles. Each year, more than 8 million of us put up a real Christmas tree in our homes, so once Christmas is over and it’s time to take down the tree for another year, it’s essential to dispose of it sustainably so that it doesn’t end up in a landfill. Here are a few ideas on the <strong>best way to recycle your real Christmas tree</strong>.</p>
<h2>Best ways to recycle your Christmas tree</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Check whether your local council has a Christmas tree collection service – most do, and it’s one of the best ways to dispose of your tree. Check the date of your collection and leave your tree out on time so that it doesn’t lie around on the pavement for days getting in everyone’s way. Councils will shred the trees to make wood chippings that can be used on paths or mulch in local parks and woodland. If your council doesn’t have a collection service, check whether you can drop your tree off at your local recycling centre.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you have your own garden shredder, cut the branches off your tree and shred them to use as mulch around acid-loving trees and shrubs such as Japanese maples, heathers and blueberry bushes. A thick layer of this mulch makes a good weed suppressant and also helps keep moisture in the soil.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Once you’ve stripped the branches of your tree, chop up the trunk and pile the logs up to create a wildlife shelter in an unused spot in your garden. All sorts of useful garden worms and insects will be happy to take up residence, and your garden will reap the benefits.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Here’s an unusual idea for your Christmas tree – why not take it to the zoo? Obviously, this isn’t the answer for everyone, but it’s surprising how much use zoo animals can get out of an old Christmas tree. Elephants will happily eat the foliage, and other animals like chimpanzees and meerkats will enjoy exploring among the branches for food hidden by the keepers. If you live near a zoo or wildlife park, check whether they are interested in having your tree once Christmas is over.&nbsp;</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>If you bought a potted tree, you can put it outside in its pot and treat it like all your other container plants. Water and feed it for the rest of the year, and with a bit of care, you’ll be able to bring it inside again next Christmas. Alternatively, if you have space in your garden, you could plant it out and let it grow into a tree.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>Once the Christmas tree is down, it’s time to get started on all those New Year’s gardening resolutions, and we’re here to help with plants, tools and advice. Visit us and get your gardening year off to a great start!</p>

5 ways to recycle your Christmas tree

<p>Time for some <strong>new year&#39;s gardening ideas</strong> to get your gardening year off to the best start.</p>

<p>Time for some <strong>new year&#39;s gardening ideas</strong> to get your gardening year off to the best start. The new year brings a time of hope, excitement and lots of gardening planning. It might be colder outside with less to do in the garden, but there is always a reason to get your hat and coat on to enjoy the fresh new year air. If the days are too cold, or the ground is frozen or waterlogged, there is still lots to do inside to start your gardening year off in the best possible way.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>Garden inspiration&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Planning&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Hard landscaping&nbsp;</li>
</ol>

<h2>Finding garden inspiration ideal for new year&#39;s gardening ideas</h2>

<p>On rainy days, fill yourself with hope for the year ahead and get some inspiration for the year ahead. Gather gardening books, magazines, online information and head to your local garden centre for inspiration. It&rsquo;s a great idea to make a mood board and visualise what you would like your garden to look like this year and into the future. Once you have gathered all of your inspiration, it will be time to plan.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Among the new year&#39;s gardening ideas is definitely planning&nbsp;</h2>

<p>When you are inspired and ready to go, start to plan your garden year ahead. You would like to sow from the seeds to the plants, shrubs, and trees. Think about the wildlife you want to bring to your garden and write your list of plants to grow, encouraging each of them to the garden. If you are growing fruit and vegetables, plan where they will be planted by roughly sketching on a notepad and consider your companion planting and crop rotation. This will pay off when you have lots of plants ready to go out later in the year.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>New year&#39;s gardening ideas include hard landscaping&nbsp;</h2>

<p>If the weather isn&rsquo;t too bad, some hard landscaping can be done at this time of year.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Clearance jobs, patios and shed builds can all be put in place.</li>
	<li>If you can&rsquo;t paint the outside of your shed because of rain, start with the inside,</li>
	<li>Greenhouses can be built and any other&nbsp;structures you need.</li>
</ul>

<p>When that is all complete, it will be spring before you know it and time to start sowing your seeds and putting your plans into action.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Gain inspiration in the store and speak to our friendly staff about your new year&#39;s gardening plans. If you want to start gardening, or you wish to put more effort and time into gardening, our staff worders are here to help and give you advice.</p>

New Year's Gardening Ideas

<p>Here are our top 7 gardening thoughts from 2021.</p>

<p>We've all needed our green space more than ever this year, and our gardens are a great place to escape when life is tough. As 2021 draws to a close, it's time to <strong>look back on the gardening year</strong> and see what lessons we can take with us next year. Here are our top 7 gardening thoughts from 2021.</p>
<h2>Top 7 lessons from last year's gardening</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>You don't have to be a gardening expert to enjoy the benefits of a garden. Just planting a few seeds can give you the thrill of seeing new life emerge from the soil, and you can grow your own delicious salads and herbs in pots on a windowsill even if you don't have a garden of your own.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Becoming peat-free in our gardens is even more important than ever. Peat bogs support a unique range of plants and wildlife, as well as substantial lock-up amounts of carbon. They take thousands of years to develop, so we must switch to other materials for our composts and potting media. Fortunately, new composts containing more sustainable products like wool, coir and composted bracken are now available, so look for them whenever you buy compost.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>We can do many things to the garden as sustainably as possible, including switching to peat-free products, being water-wise, minimising our use of single-use plastics, and composting our green garden waste. Just one or two small actions can really make a difference!</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Taking care of our soil and enriching it with organic matter is essential. This produces stronger, healthier plants and improves the soil's structure, helping it to cope with both arid and very wet weather.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>For those who don't have a garden but still want some greenery in their lives, house plants are the perfect answer. From easy-to-care-for succulents to elegant orchids, there's a house plant to suit every taste, and once you've got the house plant bug, you'll soon find your collection growing!</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Take a tip from the 2021 RHS Chelsea Flower Show and plant a pocket forest in your garden. A large container planted up with small trees, ferns and shrubs can create a tiny, lush woodland environment in a surprisingly small space. Shrubs such as hazel or hawthorn are ideal for this, as they can be coppiced to keep them from growing too big.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Whether it's birds, bees, beetles or frogs, wildlife is essential to the health of our gardens, so make your garden a wildlife-friendly space. Leave a small grass area to grow long to shelter insects and plant a wide range of flowers for pollinators and berry-bearing shrubs for birds.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>We're here to help you at every step of your gardening journey, so visit our centre soon and get set for another great year of gardening!</p>

7 things we learned from our gardens in 2021

<p><span style="font-size:16px;"><span style="color:#FF0000;"><strong>All Christmas decorations and calendars&nbsp;are now HALF PRICE!</strong></span></span></p>

<p><span style="font-size:16px;"><span style="color:#FF0000;"><strong>While stocks last!</strong></span></span></p>

<p>Please note that we are operating reduced opening times 27th - 31st December:&nbsp;10am-4.30pm.&nbsp;</p>

<p>We are closed New Years Day.</p>

<p><img alt="" height="504" src="https://www.swarkestonenursery.co.uk/files/images/big-christmas-sale-half-price-vector.jpg" width="727" /></p>

THE BIG CHRISTMAS SALE

<p>Start planning now for a <strong>wildlife-friendly garden</strong> next year with these top tips.</p>

<p>Your garden is home to an incredible variety of creatures, from insects and earthworms to birds and maybe – if you’re lucky – even a hedgehog or two. With wildlife increasingly under threat from urban development and environmental pressures, it’s more important than ever for us to look out for our garden creatures and give them all the help we can. Start planning now for a <strong>wildlife-friendly garden</strong> next year with these top tips.</p>
<h2>Top tips for a wildlife-friendly garden</h2>
<ol>
<li>
<p>Plant shrubs and trees. Winter is an ideal time for plants to dormant, allowing them to get their roots settled in before spring. So long as the ground isn’t frozen or waterlogged, it’s OK to plant, and many native hedging plants like field maple, hawthorn and blackthorn are available as bare-root plants in winter – a very cost-effective solution if you want to plant a lot of shrubs.&nbsp; Berry-bearing plants provide food for birds, and plants with thorns or spiny leaves, like pyracantha, hawthorn and holly, make excellent shelter for nesting birds in spring.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Plan a pollinator-friendly garden. Aim to have at least one plant in flower in each season of the year. Mahonia and hellebores are valuable nectar sources for pollinators around mid-winter, and bulbs like crocuses provide food in early spring. Ivy is also an excellent plant for pollinator-friendly gardens – bees love the flowers in autumn, plus the evergreen foliage shelters all sorts of overwintering garden creatures. Cut it back in spring to keep it from taking over your garden.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Create a log pile. If you’re doing any pruning in winter, save the branches and use them to make a log pile in the corner of the garden. Log piles provide habitat for beetles, woodlice, and other creepy crawlies, and a damp, shady log pile may also attract frogs and toads to feast on insects. As a side benefit, frogs and toads are also fabulous at keeping the slug population down, so everyone wins! (Apart from the slugs, that is.)</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Be a bit untidy. If you didn’t get around to cutting back all your faded perennials in autumn, don’t worry. Hollow dried flower stems provide the ideal home for overwintering insects, and you’ll still have time to tidy up the garden once the weather warms up in spring.</p>
</li>
<li>
<p>Feed the birds. Garden birds can struggle in cold weather, and they need to eat plenty to keep up their fat reserves. Fill bird feeders with high-energy sunflower seeds or hang up suet balls. Birds also need to wash their feathers in winter to maintain their insulation, keeping bird baths topped up and defrosted.</p>
</li>
</ol>
<p>If you’re looking for inspiration or advice on planting a wildlife-friendly garden, visit our centre where you’ll find tools, plants, seeds and much more. Our staff are always happy to help!</p>

5 tips for a wildlife-friendly garden

<p>Plant a smile this Christmas with&nbsp;National Garden Gift Vouchers.</p>

<p>They are redeemable at over 2,000 garden centres and nurseries&nbsp;nationally.</p>

<p>We sell and redeem National Garden Gift Vouchers.</p>

Plant a smile this Christmas with National Garden Gift Vouchers

<p>It&rsquo;s an unmistakable plant, that&rsquo;s for sure, and with the various colours available, there is an Amaryllis for everyone.&nbsp;</p>

<p>These <strong>facts about Amaryllis</strong> will help you to understand its origins, myths and how to care for it. Amaryllis are stunning when in bloom with the big, bright and beautiful flowers that light up a room. They can be a real focal point if placed in a prominent position. It&rsquo;s not just the flowers that look incredible. Even the gigantic bulb the strong stem grows from is incredible as well! It&rsquo;s an unmistakable plant, that&rsquo;s for sure, and with the various colours available, there is an Amaryllis for everyone.&nbsp;</p>

<ol>
	<li>History of the Amaryllis&nbsp;</li>
	<li>Myths about the Amaryllis&nbsp;</li>
	<li>How to care for Amaryllis&nbsp;</li>
	<li>After flowering care</li>
</ol>

<h2>Historical facts about Amaryllis&nbsp;</h2>

<p>The Amaryllis is native to Africa, but the name actually derives from the Greek word &lsquo;amarysso&rsquo;, which aptly means &lsquo;to sparkle&rsquo;, and sparkle is done! The flowers in all colours have a gentle sparkle when you look closely at them. The big bulbs were introduced to Europe sometime in the 1700s, and in some places, it has been known for them to flower again and again for 75 years.</p>

<h2>Myths and facts about Amaryllis</h2>

<p>In Greek mythology, Alteo was loved by Amaryllis, who, upon advice from the Oracle of Delphi, stood at Alteo&rsquo;s house for thirty long nights in a row and pierced her heart with a golden arrow. It turns out it worked because Amaryllis did win Alteo&rsquo;s heart. Success, determination and strength are all associated with the Amaryllis flower, and you can see why! Amaryllis is the common name for flowers in the genus Hippeastrum. The latter looks similar, but the stems are different.&nbsp;</p>

<h2>Facts about Amaryllis care</h2>

<p>Firstly, Amaryllis plants are very easy to grow. So even though the big bulb might seem like it will need a lot of care, it really doesn&rsquo;t at all. Amaryllis bulbs will take about six to eight weeks to flower from planting.</p>

<ul>
	<li>Pot them&nbsp;up, but not in a pot that&#39;s too big,</li>
	<li>Leave the top inch, or more, of the bulb above the compost,</li>
	<li>Keep it in a brightly lit position but not with direct light, and there&rsquo;s no need for much water until you see the shoot appear,</li>
	<li>Keep the compost moist but not overwatered.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>

<h2>After flower facts about Amaryllis&nbsp;</h2>

<p>When the flowers have faded, just cut the flower stalk leaving about 3cm above the top of the bulb. You might even have a second stem growing at this point which you should just leave to enjoy the next flowers coming. When it has completely finished flowering, water and feed the plant as usual, and you will see plenty of leaf growth during the summer. From mid to late summer, stop watering, allow the foliage to die back and the compost to dry out. Move the pot to a cool, dark spot for at least eight weeks. Then report it in some new compost and start the process all over again.&nbsp;</p>

<p>Keep up the patience and strength, just like Alteo, and you will get it your Amaryllis bulbs bloom again.&nbsp;</p>

Facts about Amaryllis

<p>Enjoy a Meet and Greet this Festive season with Belle in her winter dress!<br id="isPasted" />
<br />
Meet Belle for a magical personal experience at Swarkestone nursery. Have your photo taken and receive an autograph. Professional printed photos will also be available to purchase.<br />
<br />
BOOKING IS MANDATORY! We have very limited spaces and cannot meet anyone without a pre paid ticket reservation so book your tickets quick to avoid disappointment. Please only show up within your selected time.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.ticketsource.co.uk/whats-on/derby/swarkestone-nursery/meet-belle/e-ojlzde">https://www.ticketsource.co.uk/whats-on/derby/swarkestone-nursery/meet-belle/e-ojlzde</a></p>

<p><br />
Please note: The venue is wheelchair and pushchair friendly. Dogs are permitted around the centre but not within the&nbsp;experience.<br />
<br />
COVID-19 safety: Masks are mandatory for adults. Groups are limited to up to 6 people per visit. 1 ticket permits up to 6 people.</p>

<p>&nbsp;</p>

<p><img alt="" height="720" src="https://www.swarkestonenursery.co.uk/files/images/IMG-20211229-WA0001(1).jpg" style="width: 720px; height: 720px;" width="720" /></p>

Meet & Greet Disney Princess Belle - New Date 9th Jan

<p><strong>Sowing onions on Boxing Day</strong> is an excellent excuse to get out of the house and work off some of your Christmas dinners!&nbsp;</p>

<p>For generations, keen show-growers have <strong>sown their first onions on Boxing Day</strong> with dreams of prize-winning bulbs in summer. Sowing this early gives the exhibition varieties plenty of time to bulk up to truly spectacular sizes. But even if you’re only planning to grow onions for your own kitchen, sowing onions on Boxing Day is an excellent excuse to get out of the house and work off some of your Christmas dinners!&nbsp;</p>
<h2>Why grow onions from seed?</h2>
<p>Growing onions from seed involve a little more work than planting sets in spring, but it has some advantages:</p>
<ul>
<li>If you’re planning to grow a big crop of onions, a packet of seed is much more cost-effective than buying sets.</li>
<li>There’s a wide variety of onion seeds to choose from, including interesting heritage varieties.</li>
<li>Onions grown from seed are less prone to bolt (i.e. to flower and set seed instead of developing a bulb) than onions grown from sets.</li>
</ul>
<h2>How to grow onions from seed</h2>
<p>If you’re sowing onions on Boxing Day (or any time in mid-winter), you’ll need to start them off somewhere warm, like a heated greenhouse or a propagator.</p>
<ul>
<li>Fill seed trays with good multipurpose compost. Sow the seeds, 5-6 per module and cover them lightly with a thin layer of compost. Water and place somewhere at a temp of 10-16 C (50-61F).</li>
<li>In spring, harden off the seedlings and plant them out in well-drained soil in full sun. Although onions are hardy, they will benefit from being covered with fleece while young to protect them from hard frosts. In dry spells, water fortnightly and feed occasionally with a balanced liquid fertiliser.</li>
<li>Once the onions thrive, thin the clumps so that you are left with one or two onions in each clump, the onions that you pull up can be used as spring onions. Weed regularly, preferably by hand, to avoid damaging the roots of your onions. Remove any flower stems as they appear to ensure all the plants’ energies go into producing bulbs.</li>
<li>Once the bulbs start to swell in midsummer, stop feeding and watering. When the leaves begin to yellow and flop over, they are ready to harvest.&nbsp;</li>
<li>First, to store onions, leave them out in the sun or in a greenhouse for two weeks to ripen. Store the bulbs in net bags once the foliage is dry and papery, or tie the leaves together and hang up somewhere light, dry and cool. Don’t store bruised or damaged onions.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<h2>Onions to sow in winter</h2>
<p>These reliable varieties are perennially popular with both show-growers and cooks.</p>
<ul>
<li>Onion ‘Ailsa Craig’ – large bulbs with golden-brown skins and a mild flavour, popular with show growers and cooks</li>
<li>Onion ‘Exhibition’ – a traditional show-growing variety producing large, golden-skinned bulbs</li>
<li>Onion ‘Red Baron’ AGM – a late-maturing variety with flavourful dark red bulbs.&nbsp;</li>
</ul>
<p>We have a fantastic range of onion seeds and other vegetables in the centre now, so visit us soon and get set for a great year’s growing!</p>

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